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Routes in Motherlode Rock - West Face

Funkadelia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Golden Showers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Good Day for a Hangin' S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Highgrader S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Long Arm of The Law S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mighty Quinn S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Panning for Gold S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Reach for the Sky S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stake Your Claim S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Whiskeroo S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Chris Miller and Rick Shull, 1989
Page Views: 1,544 total · 11/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jul 6, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Reaching from an undercling to a distant edge with poor feet is the crux (shorter climbers may find it even harder), but once the second bolt is reached the difficulties quickly subside. Large, incut edges gain a sloping ledge below a short headwall, above which a fingery sequence on thin edges gains the anchors.

Originally done without the first bolt and the bolted anchors, all of which were added many years later.

Location

Just left of Whiskeroo and right of some small pine trees; there often is a large cheaterstone at the base.

Protection

5 bolts, chain anchors
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.10c
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.10c
Yeah, I remember attempting this with a TCU at the start and knowing it as "Patio Wall". Jul 4, 2009
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.10c
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.10c
Climbed this today, and ignored the cheatstones. The opening moves up to the horn, and then past the first bolt finally to the big holds felt like V1 to me. So I think it's 10c.

A spotter is advisable at the first bolt clip. Jul 4, 2010
Lluis Penalver-Aguila
Cambridge, Massachusetts
 
Lluis Penalver-Aguila   Cambridge, Massachusetts
 
Tricky start for shorter climbers. Pretty burly from the first hold through the slanted ledge. Eases off past the starting ledge. Aug 22, 2010
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.10c
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.10c
Mike Newheart brought up a good point; he thought this felt a lot like Clean and Jerk at JT, except a tad harder. Aug 22, 2010
RAZORsharp
Carlsbad CA
 
RAZORsharp   Carlsbad CA
 
beginning moves are the toughest. there is an awesome positive patina face that has holds on the right and left sides above the first bolt. use it to gain proper balance and stance. juggish through the rest of the route. Nov 15, 2010
J T
 
J T  
 
I literally can not reach the first hold without the cheat stone, I'm rather short, but I lead this climb clean first go. What exactly do I call that? Jun 29, 2012
I'm tall enough to do this one without a cheat stone but I don't think I'd recommend it. I might be missing something as everyone else is rating it pretty favorably but I found it more awkward than difficult. There a couple of interesting moments in terms of reading the route but overall I didn't find it to be very fun. Jul 30, 2013
Rob M
Shangri-LA
 
Rob M   Shangri-LA
 
DEFINITELY reachy for shorter climbers. I thought it was really fun though. Absolutely have a spotter on that first clip. Aug 18, 2014

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