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Routes in Purple Galaxy

Achin' for Bootie S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ain't No Mercy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Appetence S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Blood Moon S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bunky S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bush Fire S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Buzz Worm S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cavity Search S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Cold Moon S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Crowheart S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Diamonds in the Moon Light S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dog Star S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Grabbing Greta S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Kickin' Turtles S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Krymptonite S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Picture of Industry S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Purple Galaxy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Riding the Apocalypse S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Smell my Finger S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
South Paw S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sweet Beguilin' S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tyco S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Waiting for a Friend S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Mark
Page Views: 1,835 total · 13/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on Jul 6, 2007 with updates from Mark Howe
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route


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Description

Better than it looks, and quite fun at that. Climbs some delicate 5.10ish lower angle rock through a few bolts before continuous 5.11- climbing punches through the upper headwall. Fun climbing on mostly good holds.

Location

Located in a cluster or four or so climbs around the corner maybe 40 yards left of Purple Galaxy. You must pass an obvious bolted step left facing corner about half way between Purple Galaxy and the cluster or routes. SMF is the left-most line of the routes (12b,11c,11d,Smell My Finger 11c).

Protection

9 or 10 bolts to anchors.

Photos

Great line! After a technical crux around the 8th-9th bolt, prepare for a pump crux right through the next 5-6 bolts all the way to the anchors at 100 ft. This line is about as good as it gets! Aug 30, 2009
This route is of a similar length to the routes to the left as I recall (90-100'). I remember using nearly all of the 60m rope I used to establish this route to get down from the anchors. As always, regardless of rope length, route length or energy levels, close the system- i.e. tie in one end of the rope to you and the other end to your belayer- or - tie a well dressed stopper knot on the end to stop the rope at the belay device. Keep it safe and crank like a disease! Oct 18, 2017

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