Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Air Spire

Aimless Foreshadowing T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Air T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Chucklehead Crack (aka Spike's Crack) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Phallus in Wonderland T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Return of the Chucklehead's T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown (The Line over Lucy?) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 85 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 190 total · 1/month
Shared By: Rob Riggleman on Jul 6, 2007
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


6 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

A line that wanders a little bit, but I thought was a blast to climb. Starting up on one of the boulders, find the thin crack in a shallow dihedral that continues for about 20-25 feet. This section is the crux, but the gear is good (blue to yellow metolius TCUs). When the dihedral ends, pull onto the platform that is up and right on bigger holds. Continue up on a couple more obvious ledges towards the left arete, then up a thin crack, and finally up the last 30 feet on jugs to the top.

A fun line that gets your attention at the start, then offers great holds, good gear, and decent exposure all the way to the top. Descend by downclimbing to Air's anchors and rapping, or walk to the north end of the spire and rap from there.

Location

The south face on the Air Spire, starting about 30 feet up and left of Air. I remember the name Lucy being spray painted on the wall near the start, hence my guess at the name.

Protection

Stoppers and cams

Photos

John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  5.8 PG13
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  5.8 PG13
This was a alright climb. Very awkward in middle section. Also, the first overhang has many loose flakes and pieces. All the loose pieces throughout this climb make it a pretty unsafe lead. I wouldn't trust much of gear placement to hold a fall. The middle crack is protected well, overhang is R rated IMO(you could place gear, but I wouldn't trust it to hold a fall), small face above overhang is well protected, up from there is all soft and falling apart, wouldn't trust it for gear. This climb needs extensive cleaning. I had a lot of dirt/lichen on my shoes after climbing and slipped on patches of lichen as I climbed. Jul 1, 2008

More About Unknown (The Line over Lucy?)

Printer-Friendly