Type: Trad, Aid
FA: unknown
Page Views: 641 total · 5/month
Shared By: Andrew Tower on Jul 4, 2007 with updates from Tristan Bradford
Admins: Drew Nevius

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Description

Starts actually a little right of the headwall in the alcove. Climb the slab to access the headwall above the roof. Aid through the thin seam above the roof. It will go clean apparently, so please don't nail up the crack and scar it further than it already is. Just be ready for some hard aiding.

To free climb, climb the first part of Wild Child and after clipping the two rivets, climb up onto the face and step right to clip the first bolt of Anorexia. Climb right to some anchors and then up clip one more bolt before moving on up to the unprotected slab face, making your way to a shelf on top for the belay.

Protection

A little bit of everything save the pins.

Photos

Jordan Ramey
Calgary, Alberta
Jordan Ramey   Calgary, Alberta
I heard Tony Mayse was trying to free this and added some bolts with the first ascentionists blessing. Anyone know about that? Jul 10, 2007
Adam Peters
Salt Lake City, Utah
Adam Peters   Salt Lake City, Utah
I heard the short bus kids from rifle were coming to OKC to try this route, if that is true, don't worry, it won't go. Seriously, I also heard that Tony was trying this thing. I think it has had a few attempts throughout the years, but no luck yet. Maybe this fall. Andrew, why don't you try it, you've got little fingies! Jul 17, 2007
Sam Dempsey
  C2
Sam Dempsey  
  C2
If you are aiding this, bring one skyhook, two cam hooks, small cams, small nuts and rivet hangers. No trickery is involved to climb it cleanly and the addition of the bolts makes this route a walk in the cam-hook park (you can also neglect to use the bolts which makes it a bit harder, C2+ ish). I would advise bringing a head or two in case one at the end blows. If one does happen to blow remove it and see if you can use clean gear (several you definitely can). Jul 5, 2018