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Routes in Headwall

Angry Youth S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Anorexia T A3
Chicago Bound S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Dick Bump T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Hook Roof T A3
Last of the Good Guys T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Master Race T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Master Roof S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Watch me Im wasted T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Wild Child T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
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Type: Trad, Aid
FA: unknown
Page Views: 574 total · 4/month
Shared By: Andrew Tower on Jul 4, 2007 with updates from Tristan Bradford

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Description [Edit]

Starts actually a little right of the headwall in the alcove. Climb the slab to access the headwall above the roof. Aid through the thin seam above the roof. It will go clean apparently, so please don't nail up the crack and scar it further than it already is. Just be ready for some hard aiding.

To free climb, climb the first part of Wild Child and after clipping the two rivets, climb up onto the face and step right to clip the first bolt of Anorexia. Climb right to some anchors and then up clip one more bolt before moving on up to the unprotected slab face, making your way to a shelf on top for the belay.

Protection [Edit]

A little bit of everything save the pins.


Jordan Ramey
Calgary, Alberta
Jordan Ramey   Calgary, Alberta
I heard Tony Mayse was trying to free this and added some bolts with the first ascentionists blessing. Anyone know about that? Jul 10, 2007
Adam Peters
Salt Lake City, Utah
Adam Peters   Salt Lake City, Utah
I heard the short bus kids from rifle were coming to OKC to try this route, if that is true, don't worry, it won't go. Seriously, I also heard that Tony was trying this thing. I think it has had a few attempts throughout the years, but no luck yet. Maybe this fall. Andrew, why don't you try it, you've got little fingies! Jul 17, 2007

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