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Wild Child

5.11d, Trad,  Avg: 3.7 from 6 votes
FA: Duane Raleigh and Bill Thomas 1986
Oklahoma > Quartz Mountain > 04. Headwall

Description

Just to the right of Angry Youth (same start as anorexia) climbs up to the arete to access the only bolt and pull through the crux and head to the top via the arete. two bolt anchor

Protection

gear and a quickdraw. two bolt anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Tony Mayse at the bolt on Wild Child, Quartz Mountain, Oklahoma.
[Hide Photo] Tony Mayse at the bolt on Wild Child, Quartz Mountain, Oklahoma.
me
[Hide Photo] me
Tom Cosgriff on Wild Child circa 1984/85
[Hide Photo] Tom Cosgriff on Wild Child circa 1984/85

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Tony Mayse
[Hide Comment] Same start for "free Anorexia" the aid Anorexia is up approx. 10'-12' feet and starts with rivets. Sep 24, 2007
Hank Caylor
Livin' in the Junk!
 
[Hide Comment] What a terrible description for a total classic.

edit- it did have an X rating. Feb 18, 2010
Tony Mayse
[Hide Comment] When this route was first put up there was a good hold (10d) at the crux move just below the bolt. That hold has long since dissapeared. Now there are small, sharp edges where the good hold once was giving the route it's rating of 11d. Hard move at the bolt pulling onto the arete, then easier but run out climbing up the arete to a two-bolt anchor.The position of this climb is awesome.
  • Note of caution* There are fragile flakes that are used when trying to get established onto the arete. Please don't pull on these like "no tomorrow", as mentioned they are fragile.
Dec 11, 2010