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Orange Crush

5.9+, Sport,  Avg: 3.4 from 242 votes
FA: unknown
Arkansas > Horseshoe Canyo… > Far East

Description

Orange Crush is the furthest route East on the crag. Situated right next to the barbed wire fence. OC is the longest route in HCR and super fun with a great view when you finish.

Location

Farthest East on the Far East Crag right next to the barbed wire fence.

Protection

draws (about 14 of em) two bolt anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Best views in the ranch
[Hide Photo] Best views in the ranch
Hanging out at Orange Crush
[Hide Photo] Hanging out at Orange Crush
Noah on the Crush
[Hide Photo] Noah on the Crush
Sepehr starting right above the fence.
[Hide Photo] Sepehr starting right above the fence.
Orange Crush w/ Austin Fisher
[Hide Photo] Orange Crush w/ Austin Fisher
route photo
[Hide Photo] route photo
At the anchors.
[Hide Photo] At the anchors.
Nice way to wrap up a few days road trip, with an HCR classic
[Hide Photo] Nice way to wrap up a few days road trip, with an HCR classic
Far end of the Far East. If you see a barbed wire fence, you've gone too far.
[Hide Photo] Far end of the Far East. If you see a barbed wire fence, you've gone too far.
Under the overhang on Orange Crush.
[Hide Photo] Under the overhang on Orange Crush.
Michael is climbing Orange Crush on the right and Kevin is attacking Purple Nehi on the left.
[Hide Photo] Michael is climbing Orange Crush on the right and Kevin is attacking Purple Nehi on the left.
Topped out and took a picture of the ranch.
[Hide Photo] Topped out and took a picture of the ranch.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Andy Chasteen
Oklahoma City, OK
[Hide Comment] Who has 14 draws?
Cool route with a tricky little crux in the middle.
Don't fall on the barbed wire fence. Jan 25, 2008
JulSan
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] If you are in the area, do take the time to check out "Orange Crush." It is one of those "must do fun climbs" at the HCR regardless of grade ratings.

May want to stick clip the first bolt hanger due to its bouldery start and close proximity to the wire fence which marks the property's boundary line (on the right).

May 28, 2009
JBroom
anchorage, alaska
 
[Hide Comment] It's 14 bolts but a few can easily and safely be skipped due to the fact that super easy moves and bolts every 4-5 feet in places exist. Don't be discouraged if you don't have a whopping 14 draws. Jan 17, 2011
Carol Fittell
Kansas City, MO
 
[Hide Comment] If you don't have 14 draws, grab the draw at your feet after you make a clip. Lots of ledges and close bolts make this easy to do if you're not comfortable running it out. Apr 21, 2011
Carl Sherven
  5.9
[Hide Comment] I didn't enjoy this climb, but the view at the top makes it worth climbing once. Bring your camera. Jan 21, 2012
Spenser Bolte
  5.9+
[Hide Comment]
  • **BETA WARNING***

The crux (pulling the small roof a third of the way up) will feel pretty stiff to the 5.9 climber. I feel like a foot broke since the first time I did it, could be wrong though. Jam your hand under the roof and look for a jug farther right than you'd expect. Jun 13, 2012
Drew Nevius
Oklahoma
  5.9
[Hide Comment] I'll second what everyone else said about skipping bolts. Because of clipping stances, I usually skip the 2nd bolt on this route (though that risks falling on the fence) because I can already reach the 3rd by the time I would clip the 2nd.

  • *BETA WARNING**

At the crux, moving left around the arete, I thought I remember doing a layback move until I could reach the jug above. Spenser may be right about the holds out right though.. It's been at least a year since I've been on it. Jun 27, 2012
Luke Stollings
Austin, TX
[Hide Comment] I remember this route is long -- is a 60-meter rope enough? What about a 50? Apr 16, 2014
Gavin Echterling
Austin, TX
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] @Luke - We used a 60m rope and that worked just fine. I believe the route is around 70ft high, at that you're looking at 140ft of rope approx so you'll likely have enough with 50m but if you've got a 60 bring that to be safe. Apr 16, 2014
Bob Ruzich
Schaumburg
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] A GREAT way to start your day and a must do if you are at HCR. Make it your first stop in the morning before the line gets long. Mar 2, 2016
Michael Parker
Bozeman, MT
  5.9+
[Hide Comment]
  • *BETA WARNING***

I gastoned the large side pull with my right hand at the crux and got high feet to reach up and over the roof. This method was very physical. My partner used the rail on the bottom of the roof as an undercling with his right hand and used the big side pull with his left hand to work his feet up and gain the height needed to reach over the roof. Once you are past the roof, you can relax and enjoy the views all the way to the top clipping like 11 more bolts as you go.

I started the route with so many draws it felt like I was carrying my multi-pitch rack... Oct 18, 2016
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
 
[Hide Comment] We had at least two very different solutions to the crux ... naturally the easier beta was not the solution that seemed obvious to me! Nov 8, 2016