PRINT: Rock Climb Nirvana, Lover's Leap

Nirvana

5.11+, Sport, 160 ft (48 m), 2 pitches,

Avg: 3.4 from 34 votes
FA: Jay Smith, 1993
California > Lake Tahoe > Highway 50 Corr… > Lover's Leap > Main Formation > W Wall

Access Issue: 2023 Raptor Closure at Lover's Leap Details

mountainproject.com/forum/t…

Access Issue: Temporary Intermittent Closure Warning Details

ATTN CLIMBERS: Temporary Intermittent Closure Warning
Surrealistic Pillar, Lower Buttress, Lover’s Leap
From July 7 – August 12, 2023
Access Fund & CRAGS + TCC + BACC Adopt-a-Crag Trailwork In Progress

There will be intermittent closures of climbs at the Lower Buttress for both climber and worker safety. Climbs affected will include all routes between Surrealistic Pillar Direct and Sinbad-Herbert.

We all know how popular Surrealistic Pillar is! We understand that this may pose an inconvenience for your weekend climbing plans; however we MUST mitigate the erosion at the base as soon as possible.

Work will occur Wednesday to Sunday from 8:00 AM – 3:00 PM from July 8 until August 12 with volunteer work days on Saturdays. There will be a steel cable & griphoist ‘high line’ rigged, which is used to haul and transport large rocks. Please be aware of this hazard AND the potential for large rocks to be moved above you while you are hiking through this area.

Alternative climbs that access the top of Lower Buttress and that can be used in place of Surrealistic Pillar include:
• The Groove 5.8, 2 pitches
• The Farce 5.5, 2 pitches (variations at 5.7, 5.8 & 5.9)

Hiking Access to the Main Wall / Ledge is also still possible via the Main Wall Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's right) OR the Tombstone Ledge Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's left).
info@norcalcrags.org

Description

Climbs the Arete to the left of Hospital Corner. First pitch follows the beautifull orange arete through thin delicate moves to a bulge, then up dikes to a preplexing finish. One 60m rope will get you close to the ground. Carefull or you'll drop someone on the lower off. The second pitch climbs even thinner and more balancy moves past a few bolts to the anchor.

Location

To the left of Hospital Corner

Protection

9 draws.

Metolius rappel hangers at top of first pitch (meant for rappelling, not lowering). Standard bolt anchor with quicklinks/rings at second anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

past the crux, working my way up the arete.

trying my best to figure out how to pull the last moves.. must be a broken hold somewhere!!

Nirvana hang dog

Catching some exposure above the second belay.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Aron Quiter
Oakland, CA

We rapped from the first set of anchors, and our 70mm rope JUST made it to the ground. Nov 7, 2010

Louis Mullerleile
Sacramento, California

5.11c

A bold line. The second pitch has a strong beginning sequence, and eases up significantly after getting through the second bolt. Both pitches are excellent climbs with a variety of fun, delicate moves. I thought that the second pitch was easier than the first, and the supplemental pro on the second pitch is unnecessary(it is well bolted). Do both pitches for the full experience! Oct 7, 2014

Short Fall Sean
Bishop, CA

2nd bolt is a bit loose, and it protects the crux. Maybe bring a wrench if you're heading up on this. Jul 18, 2016

almostrad
BLC

Highly recommend linking through the second pitch; deserves more traffic.
Bring many runners, rope drag can get a bit heinous due to the nature of arete climbing. P2 anchors have Metolius rap hangars so be prepared to abseil. Sep 12, 2020

Christian Schwarzer
Bella California

5.11+

The second anchor consists of the same two Metolius rappel hangers as the anchor after the first pitch (as of Sept 2023, no chain links). Combine p1 and p2 in one beautiful long pitch with a 70m rope and a long sling in the p1 anchor. The starting moves on the second pitch provide some fantastic exposure. I placed a 0.5 near the top of p2, though probably will run out that section next time. Two raps bring you back down. Sep 29, 2023