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Routes in Coyote Tower

Dalai Lama (aka Viagra), The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hydroponics T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hydroponics- right crack strictly T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Post-Coital Snuggle S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed V5 6C
User Friendly (aka Foreplay) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Trad, 55 ft
FA: Steve Sangdahl and Rob Lemon 1982
Page Views: 874 total · 6/month
Shared By: TravisMelin on Jul 2, 2007
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description

Climb slightly overhung side of tower, seems like it could be done a few different ways.

Location

Road side of the coyote tower.

Protection

Cams, wires.

Photos

Known as "Viagra" in the Ryan Hansen guide book. 5.10+ Jun 11, 2010
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
How's the rock quality? Didnt look great last time I was there. Jul 2, 2010
Burton Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burton Lindquist   Madison, WI  
This a hard lead. The gear is there but at your feet in a few places.
This thing looks easier then it is. It gets harder and harder the higher and higher you go... Sep 9, 2010
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
First lead Steve Sangdahl and Rob Lemon 1982. This one was hard. I remember old Rob was worried I was gonna rip gear and land on him. I assured him it was better if I landed on him than the ground and that he would be fulfilling his belayer obligations to the highest level. Rob wasn't buying it. Rob was a great friend and true DLFA character,he passed away a few years ago. He was a Buddhist at heart. Can we name this something other than viagra? I propose "The Dali Lama". Hope that doesn't sound blasphemous. RIP Rob. Nov 30, 2015
Ben Clark
La Crosse, WI
Ben Clark   La Crosse, WI
I accessed the top from Post-Coital Snuggle to set a TR and only saw one bolt. The route is fun. It would be nice to not have to mess around with gear as the rock quality at the top isn't great. The rock also looked suspect in places during the climb. Jul 9, 2018
jon jugenheimer
Madison, WI
 
jon jugenheimer   Madison, WI  
 
@Ben Clark One anchor bolt? The anchor bolts were installed 2 years ago, bommer glue in bolts and still should be there...Also, there are no on route bolts, as it is a trad climb or a TR. Jul 9, 2018
Ben Clark
La Crosse, WI
Ben Clark   La Crosse, WI
When we got to the top we could only see 1 bolt, so I supplemented that one bolt with gear to set a TR. Jul 9, 2018
Burton Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burton Lindquist   Madison, WI  
I will look into this issue this weekend on Sunday. Planning on heading up there. I hope it wasn't force removed or worse yet failed after simple use? I will get to the bottom of it... Jul 19, 2018

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