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Routes in Coyote Tower

Dalai Lama (aka Viagra), The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hydroponics T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hydroponics- right crack strictly T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Post-Coital Snuggle S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed V5 6C
User Friendly (aka Foreplay) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Steve Sangdahl and Jack Klien 1982
Page Views: 2,858 total, 22/month
Shared By: TravisMelin on Jul 2, 2007
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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51 Opinions

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Description

Climb obvious cracks on the river side of the tower. Most people start this from the notch between the tower and main bluff line and traverse into the crack. To add an extra bit of difficulty do the V1 crack that start at the very base of the tower.

Location

On the riverside of the coyote tower.

Protection

Plenty of small cams or wires, chain anchors
Doorbluff
Stevens Point, WI
 
Doorbluff   Stevens Point, WI
 
Absolute classic with a great top-out spire view. If you use both cracks it feels 5.9; if you stick strictly to the right crack it feels more like 5.10. Takes great gear and is really, really fun (including the tiny fingers boulder problem start). May 10, 2017
Joel Allen
La Crosse, WI
  5.9
Joel Allen   La Crosse, WI
  5.9
You should definitely do the V1 start but IMO it doesn't make the route any harder because after the V1 start you can rest on a ledge back to 100% if you want. Definitely a route worth doing though! If only the twin cracks went on for another 50 feet! Aug 5, 2015
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  5.10a
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  5.10a
If you do the V1 start to Hydroponics, this climb feels like a 5.10. Great climbing all the way! Sep 7, 2010
Tradiban
  5.7
Tradiban  
  5.7
Rated 5.9+ in Ryan's guidebook. Jun 29, 2010
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
  5.9
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
  5.9
I agree with the most recent statement. This is a super fun route, esp. up high on the cracks. Get on it! Not a 5.8 gimme. Apr 13, 2009
randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
 
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
 
the twin cracks up top are really fun. Apr 13, 2009
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
we did this in the early 1980's (1982 ? ) steve sangdahl and jack klien Jun 8, 2008
This route is called Hydroponics I don't know who did the FA. Jun 6, 2008
Leo Hski
  5.9
Leo Hski  
  5.9
Jesse is talking about a route called "Hydroponics" (at least when I was climbing there). About 5.9 or easy .10. Starts up a little layback corner to a ledge at ~20 feet, then up the crack. Good pro, good climbing.
Nov 19, 2006
Don't know if it has a name but I remember that being 5.8.

(ADMIN NOTE: This comment moved from the main Necedah page.) May 14, 2006
For anyone who has some Necedah history to offer--

There is a route that goes up the back side (by back side I mean closer to the water) of the formation that I believe is called Coyote Tower (the small spire not far from Y crack wall) It's not bolted but nicely protectable and there is a set of chains at the top. Just curious if anyone knows if there is a consensus on the name or grade of the route.

Thanks.

(ADMIN NOTE: This comment moved from the main Necedah page.) Apr 10, 2006