PRINT: Rock Climb East Chimney, Southeast Utah

East Chimney

5.9, Trad, 60 ft (18 m),

Avg: 1.6 from 8 votes
FA: Randall Weekley and Jonathan Auerbach
Utah > Southeast Utah > Arches NP > Bullwinkle Tower

Access Issue: Closures and Restrictions Details

Check Raptor closure status and details at: nps.gov/arch/planyourvisit/…

Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions mountainproject.com/v/utah/… in Arches National Park

Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.

RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.

Description

Chimney with some loose rock.

Location

Traverse right from the west chimney to belay stance under route

Protection

Pro to number 4 cams and long slings. Set anchor on ledge for belay. Use bolts from west chimney route for anchor.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Northwest Corner
Bend

The FA was done by Randall Weekley and Jonathan Auerbach thinking they were doing the second ascent of the West Chimney. Jul 29, 2009

Brennan Crellin
Sandy, UT

5.9 R

This climb begins 10-15' off the true deck, and opens with a very committing move on about-to-break holds, protected only by two opposing lobes of a C3. This opening move could end in serious injury if not perfectly executed. The next possible placement is 6-8' above that half-placed C3. Take #5 C4 places just below the wedged boulder at the top, to protect the final move, up, around, and over it. Belayer should not stand directly at base of climb, due to inevitable debris that will fall. Mar 9, 2014