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Routes in Bullwinkle Tower

East Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
West Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Randall Weekley and Jonathan Auerbach
Page Views: 1,276 total, 10/month
Shared By: jason malczyk on Jul 2, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Raptor Closures 2017: Check status and details at: nps.gov/arch/planyourvisit/… -Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions mountainproject.com/v/utah/… in Arches National Park Details
RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Chimney with some loose rock.

Location

Traverse right from the west chimney to belay stance under route

Protection

Pro to number 4 cams and long slings. Set anchor on ledge for belay. Use bolts from west chimney route for anchor.

Photos

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Brennan Crellin
Millcreek, UT
  5.9 R
Brennan Crellin   Millcreek, UT  
  5.9 R
This climb begins 10-15' off the true deck, and opens with a very committing move on about-to-break holds, protected only by two opposing lobes of a C3. This opening move could end in serious injury if not perfectly executed. The next possible placement is 6-8' above that half-placed C3. Take #5 C4 places just below the wedged boulder at the top, to protect the final move, up, around, and over it. Belayer should not stand directly at base of climb, due to inevitable debris that will fall. Mar 9, 2014
The FA was done by Randall Weekley and Jonathan Auerbach thinking they were doing the second ascent of the West Chimney. Jul 29, 2009