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Dragonslayer

5.13b, Sport, 40 ft (12 m),  Avg: 2.2 from 14 votes
FA: Ed Strang (then Jean DeLataillade, then Paul May, all in the same day), bolted by Luke Laeser
New Mexico > Los Alamos & Wh… > Dungeon > 45° Boulder

Description

Far left side of the 45deg boulder, right of that slab route no one seems to know the name of. Basically a very cool V7 boulder problem to a 5.11 slab to the chains. A truly proud ascent would be to (highball) boulder it which would require plenty of pads and spotters...and confidence

Protection

bolts, preclip the first 2 so you don't end up in the stream

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Ben Hanna on the crux of Dragon slayer
[Hide Photo] Ben Hanna on the crux of Dragon slayer
Sticking the move to the pinch. (Possibly not the best beta)
[Hide Photo] Sticking the move to the pinch. (Possibly not the best beta)

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Laeserguns
Lost Almost, NM
[Hide Comment] I bolted this route and Ed Strang made the first ascent, followed by Jean DeLataillade, and then Paul May all in the same day. It took me a few more months to beat it into submission. Nathaniel Walker later discovered that a good alternate finish (instead of climbing thin the slab after the crux) is to traverse to the right and finish on BeastMaster.

We all thought this route seemed like 13c at the time. 12d seems a bit ridiculous -- it's a pretty hard boulder problem. Jul 24, 2008
Jon Dela
Santa Fe, NM
[Hide Comment] consensus 12d, ha ha... hilarious. more like solid 13b. Jul 27, 2008
Matthew NM
  5.13b
[Hide Comment] Eh, hard to grade I suppose, didnt' mean to offend. Really this is roped bouldering and at that it felt about V7. So maybe that's the better way to look at it instead of a 5.whatever grade. Regardless of the grade, it's a lot of fun and well worth doing. Apr 7, 2009
Matt Lawry
Louisville, CO
  5.13b
[Hide Comment] Those with small wingspans (including myself) definitely are going to fight for this one. I couldn't reach the "diving board" jug from the big undercling, so I sent using a kneescum and an awful undercling ten inches up and right from the big one. Felt about V8 for the beta I used. Jul 25, 2009
Ryan Salazar
 
[Hide Comment] An extremely cryptic crux to a pretty fun slab. Kind of hard to work the crux, but from the ledge be prepared to flex your buns and commit to get to the stances necessary to clip the bolts. Easy to drop in from Xena and check out the slab from the ledge. Not so easy to work the crux from a top rope or on lead, game plan needs to be solid for that part. Jun 13, 2019