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White Fandango

5.9, Trad, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 2.5 from 31 votes
FA: Trocchi/Nichols/Madara '75
Connecticut > Central Valley > Cathole Mountain > Main Walls

Description

This was the first route I did in CT and I returned to it several times. The dihedral is steep and pumpy and the pro is decent but strenuous to place. Stout for its grade. Stem and jam up the steep dihedral which gets easier above as the angle eases.

Location

White Fandango is one of the left-most routes on the crag. It is the obvious steep dihedral just left of the nasty looking Phantasmagoria roof.

Protection

Standard rack of small wires through med cams.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Stem and reeeeeach.
[Hide Photo] Stem and reeeeeach.
Charlie lying back the start.
[Hide Photo] Charlie lying back the start.
Top of White Fandango
[Hide Photo] Top of White Fandango
White Fandango follows the obvious inside corner to the face above.
[Hide Photo] White Fandango follows the obvious inside corner to the face above.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jim O'Brien
Branford, CT
 
[Hide Comment] The block at the top of the crux dihedrial is very loose- DON'T GRAB IT! Apr 28, 2008
Joel A
  5.9
[Hide Comment] The block at the top of the crux is fine now. Not sure how it was before, but I weighted it with my 190 lbs. 3 times and it didn't budge. Jul 31, 2011
steverett
Boston, MA
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] Block on top of the dihedral is still loose but hasn't moved in 4 years, apparently. Oct 24, 2012
Brian M
Long Beach, CA
 
[Hide Comment] Agreed with last 2 people, the block has been solid for the last couple of times I climbed it, weigh around 180lbs Jun 6, 2013
Morgan Patterson
NH
[Hide Comment] Why not trundle it when the crag is empty sometime? Jun 7, 2013
M Mobley
Bar Harbor, ME
[Hide Comment] I pulled on it a few years back, its in there pretty good. I did put a giant skull&crossbones on it with chalk just to scare people away from gangbanging it on TR Jun 10, 2013
CTdave
Victor, Id.
 
[Hide Comment] the block is solid at the top of the dihedral. I hung on it with both arms after testing it with a couple pushes and pulls. Aug 22, 2013
christopher adams
  5.9+ R
[Hide Comment] Gear past the crux dihedral is very spicy because of the flare in the crack. Jun 13, 2014
GabeO
Boston, MA
5.9 R
[Hide Comment] The loose block at the top of the dihedral is gone. However there is another loose block about 10 or 12 feet above this. This is very unfortunate, since you get no gear through there, and then avoiding that next loose block is a bit cruxy. If you grab that block and it comes out you're looking at a good 15 foot fall onto the ledge, and then another 15 feet (to near groundfall). Be careful. Aug 26, 2014
Alex Jacques
Idyllwild, CA
 
[Hide Comment] I don't understand what all these comments are about, this climb is G rated, full of solid pro. Do it. Jun 20, 2015