North Buttress (aka the Dragrace aka the Dragway)
Avg: 3.2 from 5 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 700 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||FA: Reed Cundiff & Jack Miller, 1971 FFA: Jay Smith & Paul Crawford, 1983|
|Page Views:||4,256 total · 33/month|
|Shared By:||M. Morley on Jul 1, 2007|
|Admins:||Chris Owen, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
Description"One of the classic climbs in the High Sierra, this route deserves more traffic," writes R.J. Secor of the North Buttress of Dragtooth.
The route ascends a striking left-facing dihedral that is visible from afar. Scramble up a snowfield/glacier and crumbly rock to gain a ledge with a 2-piton anchor. Rope up beneath a chimney at the bottom of the buttress. Climb the chimney (5.7) and continue straight up the face for a full rope length to belay. (past a hangerless 1/4" bolt) to the base of the prominent left-facing dihedral and a single piton. The next 2 pitches ascend the dihedral, and constitute the best climbing on the route. The first dihedral pitch is 5.9 and ends at a stance with (best to back up). The fourth pitch (100') continues on 5.9 terrain, culminating in a section of 5.10 off-width to gain a belay in a small alcove. BEWARE OF THE LOOSE, STACKED BLOCKS guarding the exit from the clean corner! ascends a finger-to-hands crack for 140'. From here, 3rd and 4th class scrambling for several pitches lead to the summit.
Descend via the notch between Dragtooth and Matterhorn Peak.