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> D. Camp 4 Area
> 2. Lower Brother
Maple Jam
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2.3 from 18
votes
Routes in 2. Lower Brother
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Absolutely Free Left Side T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Absolutely Free, Center T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Absolutely Free, Right Side T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Absolutely Tree Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dust in the Wind T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Hawkman's Escape T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Make a Wish Arete S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Maple Jam T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Nutty Buddy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Positively 4th Street T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Chris Falkenstein, Dennis Miller, 1973 |
| Page Views: | 2,163 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Will S on Jul 1, 2007 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
This route has some fun and challenging jamming on the second pitch. The first pitch climbs a 5.8 lieback on the left side of a tower with a wide crack in the back. Take the biggest cams you own or a single #4 Camalot and run it out. Alternatively, climb the right side of the tower, through vegetation in the bottom half and a wide crack in the back for the upper half (this option is much easier and less runout, but dirty and unaesthetic climbing). For many years a large tree served as the belay and start for the second pitch. That tree is dead and gone, good luck rigging a belay here, best just to link the two pitches into one. (UPDATE: A gear belay is now available at the base of the formerly dirty corner and the scary section described below has been extensively cleaned, takes pro, and is much more enjoyable after the cleaning.)
The section between the top of the tower and the roof WAS dirty, loose, scary climbing through the remnants of the old tree in a wide crack where the trunk used to grow, complete with teeter totter 500lb spikes of loose rock, crumbling roots, dirt, and rotten bark. In the past the tree provided clean access to the roof. Grovel up this 10' section to the roof and plug in a 3.5"-4" piece. The roof quickly tapers to perfect hands. Pull around the roof (crux) on good hands turning into fingers and off fingers with good stemming rests. Easy crack in a dihedral leads to a final 5.9 crux up high pulling through a section of vertical 3" crack. After the second crux, move slightly left out of the dihedral onto easy face climbing to avoid loose blocks and dirt in the corner. Belay at two solid/modern bolts. Walk off left or rap.
The section between the top of the tower and the roof WAS dirty, loose, scary climbing through the remnants of the old tree in a wide crack where the trunk used to grow, complete with teeter totter 500lb spikes of loose rock, crumbling roots, dirt, and rotten bark. In the past the tree provided clean access to the roof. Grovel up this 10' section to the roof and plug in a 3.5"-4" piece. The roof quickly tapers to perfect hands. Pull around the roof (crux) on good hands turning into fingers and off fingers with good stemming rests. Easy crack in a dihedral leads to a final 5.9 crux up high pulling through a section of vertical 3" crack. After the second crux, move slightly left out of the dihedral onto easy face climbing to avoid loose blocks and dirt in the corner. Belay at two solid/modern bolts. Walk off left or rap.
Location
The route is located approximately 150' left and uphill from Positively 4th Street at a point where a small ledge juts out to the right from the base. The first pitch appears as a small 30' tower with a clean wide crack on the left side. The second pitch is visible above as a wide crack under a roof, thinning and turning the roof on the left and becoming a lower angle left facing corner system. Walk off climbers left on 3rd/4th class ledges.
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