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Routes in Gunsmoke Wall

After the Gold Rush TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Bacon Taco S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Black Powder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cali Gold TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Dirty Captain Freeman T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Drug of Choice S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fever Pitch S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Filet of Sole T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Finger Crimping Good S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gunsmoke T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Long Branch S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Narcotic Prayer TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Powderhorn S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rawhide S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Smokin' the Rock S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Smoking Gun S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Testosterone Crack S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Triple Decker T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Chris Miller & Ernesto Ramirez, May 1989
Page Views: 1,282 total · 10/month
Shared By: Bill Olszewski on Jul 1, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description [Edit]

This is the three bolt line on the left corner of the Southeast face of Gunsmoke Wall. Bacon Taco is a relatively little-known standout in the Pinnacles, a true diamond in the rough. Start below the small roofs, moving up and left to gain the first bolt. The moves here are a bit dicey - have your belayer give you a spot before clipping and watch your head under the roof! The crux comes next, moving up and right to a good stance to clip the second bolt. The second roof is an easy pull, leading to the third bolt which protects the last of the moderate moves. Finish up over easier climbing to the anchors shared with After the Gold Rush. A spicy lead and good, solid climb for the grade.

Location [Edit]

Southeast face of Gunsmoke Wall, on the left arete.

Protection [Edit]

3 bolts, chain anchors

Photos

C Miller
CA
  5.10a
C Miller   CA  
  5.10a
Orignally done without any bolts, but I added the anchor years after it was bolted. Jul 2, 2007
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.10a
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.10a
Nice route with a problematic start and a fun roof. Jul 22, 2012
GDavis  
If this route is 'a diamond in the rough'.... Apr 15, 2013
The grade is height-dependent. Shorter folks will find the crux above the first bolt to be stouter than a Holcomb Valley 10a. Aug 31, 2015
Alex Fletcher
Anaheim, CA
  5.10a
Alex Fletcher   Anaheim, CA
  5.10a
Originally thought this route was a 5.6 for some reason. Just remembered that I did it as a warm up thinking there's no way this is a 6 the whole time. Decent route I think. Jul 22, 2016
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
Fun route, easy to clip the first bolt... balance required to pass it. Pretty fun MILES better than the cruddy 5.9 across the way on Claim jumper. If you're geared up and in the area, it's definitely worth stopping to do. Jul 14, 2017

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