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Routes in The Streaked Wall

Latitudes 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A4
Rodeo Queen 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A4
Tale of the Scorpion 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A3+
Wet Stone Wall 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A4
Type: Aid, 9 pitches, Grade V
FA: Dave Webster, Rick Nelson, Jeff Mayhew April 1990
Page Views: 12,792 total · 97/month
Shared By: mat degraaf on Jul 1, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

The Streaked Wall is the most intimidating wall in the park. It is severely overhanging and requires full commitment. Once you leave the ground retreat is not an option.

The route begins off Rubicon ledge and arches at what seems like 45 degrees across a beautifully blank wall. There is nothing but a solitary crack and big air.

The first and third pitches are the technical cruxes but each pitch involves a good bit of work. All but the last 3 pitches are A3.

Many of the belay and lead bolts have been replaced.

There are many "holes" on the route. Bring plenty of #2 sawed-off angles to drop into them.

Approach

From the Zion Canyon intersection, look due west, drool, park on the west side of the river in the small pull out. Don't block the gate.

Muster up all of your mental and physical fortitude and follow the obvious drainage. After 1/2 mile or so, veer left out of the drainage and follow a faint path to the base of the wall.

Bushwhack your way up right until you reach an obvious blank wall with a bolt ladder.

The route begins in an obvious dihedral at the left end of Rubicon ledge. There are 3 "approach" pitches to get to Rubicon.

Protection

Blades, beaks, angles, cams to #4, hooks, bolt kit, and more. Basically, come armed for bear.

Descent

Walk SE across the top of the wall. Stay close to the edge. Aim for the museum.

There are 3 raps.

Keep your eyes peeled. From the saddle, you can either go back towards the drainage (and your car) or towards the museum. Both suck.

Photos

Brad G  
Dose anyone know how many pitches this route is? Sep 27, 2007
Bryan Gilmore
New England, Hell
Bryan Gilmore   New England, Hell
Brad, I don't know Tails of the Scorpion- but I've done Lattitudes and it was eight pitches from Rubicon Ledge if my memory serves me... There was a detailed topo at the visitors center at that time. Enjoy. Oct 4, 2007
JMayhew
Tucson, AZ
JMayhew   Tucson, AZ
Correct name is "Tale of the Scorpion," being a play on words. You can see the black scorpion on the wall to the right of the actual line. An epic story of being stung hard. FA Dave Webster, Rick Nelson, Jeff Mayhew April 1990. Originally 4 approach pitches and 10 on the main wall. May 18, 2008
ErikK  
There is no topo around, the info in the description is enough to guide you in the right direction. And yes, agreed, be wary of Thanksgiving........ Dec 21, 2008
Nate Brown
Wilson, Wy
Nate Brown   Wilson, Wy
Maybe, for longevity sake, tapping skyhook lightly into the heinous holes will help them last longer. Also, even though many will disagree, I feel that adding a bolt next to a shitty hole is doing most future parties, and perhaps yourself, a favor. Jul 21, 2009
mat degraaf  
 
From your car to the base of the approach pitches takes about an hour or so. To climb and haul the approach pitches takes another hour plus. Look for the haul station in the middle of the face. This will streamline the process.
I agree with Nate, bad holes only get worse. Use discretion and think of those who will inevitably come after you. Feb 14, 2011
Wade Griffith
  5.10a A3-
Wade Griffith  
  5.10a A3-
You guys saying the hook holes are totally blown and need a bolt? Would definitely rather not resort to that. Are subsequent parties having to continually enhance hooks cause rock is soft? Mar 25, 2011
Ken Trout
Golden, CO
Ken Trout   Golden, CO
Ed Fogels and I made the first attempt on this route, October 1980. We had Forrest hammocks, 10 rurps, 40 bolts from the hardware store in St. George, and two bat hooks (made for us by a very old and generous man in town).

The rangers told us a rescue would be impossible and watched us with telescopes every day as we hauled water up to Rubicon ledge. The first bolt on the Streaked Wall broke easily as I wrenched it down. Unable to trust our anchors we ended our attempt after one pitch off Rubicon.



Apr 1, 2013
Wade Griffith
  5.10a A3-
Wade Griffith  
  5.10a A3-
Amazing route. Worst part is the approach up till Rubicon and descent. The climb itself was steep and fun with lots of beaking. Bring many medium to large beaks and #2 and #3 sawed offs for holes. We found that even the supposedly easy pitches required some work. Overhanging and right leaning from pitch 3 on. Oct 1, 2013
Sam Keller  
 
Love this route. Adventurous, commiting, requires endurance.

The descent can be confusing. It descends a mountaineers route. Here is a link to a route description.

supertopo.com/rock-climbing… Nov 23, 2016

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