Tale of the Scorpion
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British A3+
Avg: 4 from 7 votes
Type: | Aid, 9 pitches, Grade V |
FA: | Dave Webster, Rick Nelson, Jeff Mayhew April 1990 |
Page Views: | 16,912 total · 79/month |
Shared By: | mat degraaf on Jul 1, 2007 |
Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Closures in effect March 1
Check for current Raptor closure conditions at:
nps.gov/zion/planyourvisit/…
Check for current Raptor closure conditions at:
nps.gov/zion/planyourvisit/…
Description
The Streaked Wall is the most intimidating wall in the park. It is severely overhanging and requires full commitment. Once you leave the ground retreat is not an option.
The route begins off Rubicon ledge and arches at what seems like 45 degrees across a beautifully blank wall. There is nothing but a solitary crack and big air.
The first and third pitches are the technical cruxes but each pitch involves a good bit of work. All but the last 3 pitches are A3.
Many of the belay and lead bolts have been replaced.
There are many "holes" on the route. Bring plenty of #2 sawed-off angles to drop into them.
The route begins off Rubicon ledge and arches at what seems like 45 degrees across a beautifully blank wall. There is nothing but a solitary crack and big air.
The first and third pitches are the technical cruxes but each pitch involves a good bit of work. All but the last 3 pitches are A3.
Many of the belay and lead bolts have been replaced.
There are many "holes" on the route. Bring plenty of #2 sawed-off angles to drop into them.
Approach
From the Zion Canyon intersection, look due west, drool, park on the west side of the river in the small pull out. Don't block the gate.
Muster up all of your mental and physical fortitude and follow the obvious drainage. After 1/2 mile or so, veer left out of the drainage and follow a faint path to the base of the wall.
Bushwhack your way up right until you reach an obvious blank wall with a bolt ladder.
The route begins in an obvious dihedral at the left end of Rubicon ledge. There are 3 "approach" pitches to get to Rubicon.
Muster up all of your mental and physical fortitude and follow the obvious drainage. After 1/2 mile or so, veer left out of the drainage and follow a faint path to the base of the wall.
Bushwhack your way up right until you reach an obvious blank wall with a bolt ladder.
The route begins in an obvious dihedral at the left end of Rubicon ledge. There are 3 "approach" pitches to get to Rubicon.
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