5.8+,
Trad, 75 ft (23 m),
Avg: 1.7 from 3
votes
FA: Luke Douglas & Tyler Phillips 06'
Utah
> Wasatch Range
> Central Wasatch
> Little Cottonwo…
> Maybird Slide Area
> Maybird E Side
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed. Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Start up the right facing dihedral (in between Petnapussy and Feline Stall Tactics). The pitch starts thin and joins Feline Stall Tactics for about 15 feet, then at the roof climb up and right to a sweet finger splitter (instead of going up the Feline Flakes), the pitch turns hands as you head to the tree. 5.8+/5.9-
Location
This is the center route on the Feline wall.
Protection
A rack up to #3 camalot should do. Maybe replacement slings for the anchor.