Sport, Alpine, 350 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III,
Avg: 3.3 from 3
FA: Mark Tarrant, Richard Wright, June, 2007
> Main Wall
Bolts & hangers: $3.25. Gas to the crag: $3.00/gal. Coming home after a brush with eternity: Priceless. The first route to go to the top of The Halidome, this 350' sport route starts from the Catwalk, about 30' right of the EIH, just behind a long boulder. Overall, the route is very nice with some sections of less than perfect rock, but most is on good stone.
Pitch 1: 5.11a, 18 bolts, 140', 3-bolt anchor. This pitch can be broken into two shorter pitches (1: 85', 12 bolts + anchor, 2: 55', 5 bolts), but works fine as one long pitch if you have enough draws. Done as one pitch, be sure to take two long slings--one for the first rap anchor @ 85' and another four bolts higher. The hard parts are at about 50' to 60' (when in doubt, move left...).
Pitch 2: 5.12b, 13 bolts, 90', 3-bolt anchor. The crux pitch is on excellent rock throughout. It starts out moderately (.10a) for 40' where you'll layback up a steep corner that ends at a roof. The crux starts here, moving left on a sloping finger rail and then up a steep layback rail for about 15'. Transitioning onto the slab above feels really hard until you figure it out, and then it's only pretty hard. Cruise up the corner and deal with a .10+ move at the last bolt. Belay on a spectacular "perch".
Pitch 3: 5.10c, 9 bolts, 75', 3-bolt anchor. A good pitch with nice moves and great position, but unfortunately on somewhat grubby rock. The crux feels trivial if you can see the holds which tend to blend in. A biner was left on a bolt in order to guide the rope away from a sharp edge when rapping--please leave it for yourself and future parties.
Pitch 4: 5.12a, 5 bolts, 55', 2-bolt anchor. The final pitch climbs a short, vertical wall on great stone to the top of the cliff. It feels more like .11+ when you've got it wired (as I did when bolting it), but it might be .12a to onsight. Check out the magical landscape on top when you're at the anchor. Treat this pitch like a 1-pitch sport route and lower back to your partner.
Descent: Rap the route. 1: Last pitch: Lower back to the belay. 2: Rap 75' back to "The Perch", (be sure to use the biner to route the rope around a sharp edge). 3: Rapping the crux pitch is a full 90' and it's overhung, but you'll end up exactly at the anchor (near the ends of a 60m rope!). 3: A short rap down to the first anchor. 4: 85' to The Catwalk.
Near the left end of The Catwalk, about 30' before the Easter Island Head.
12 to 18 draws depending on how the first pitches are combined, plus 3-bolt anchors after each pitch. Long slings useful if pitch 1 done as described. 60m rope.
The top headwall pitches of Priceless and Loosey in the Sky, Halidome, which was the obvious clean, sheer sections, a face climber's dream, to the top via sport apparatus. Good job Mark and Richard…
Latched. But with only 20 more feet of crux climbing to go, this hardly feels like a done deal at this point. Put it all together and it makes a very nice sequence.
Priceless is in dark blue above The Catwalk in baby blue.
Mark setting up the P3 crux.
Mark on the typical Halidome "choss" of P1.
The rope shows the real angle of P3 crux.
Pitch 3, Priceless.
Mark starting up P1.
The last pitch.
Nearing the end of pitch 2, with some wily moves at the last bolt.
Looking down the crux pitch, Priceless.