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Routes in Mary Jane Cliff

Bigger than the fish? S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chimney/Slab S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Glassware S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
I Love You Mary Jane S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Insane in the Brain S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Insane in the Membrane S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Last Dance with Mary Jane S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Make It Legal S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mary Jane S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pine In The Ass S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rock Bottom S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Rob Wolfe
Page Views: 658 total · 5/month
Shared By: Cunning Linguist on Jun 29, 2007
Admins: Justin Johnsen

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Access Issue: Mount Charleston Wilderness Area Details

Description

Two short cruxes bookended by very moderate climbing. First crux is bouldery and sure to spit off those who don't like open handed slopers, and after trying to rest on the very sharp holds, second crux has a difficult clip (long draw reccommended) and a hard move to an ugly chipped pocket. From there on it's hanging on and not pumping off. The highlight of the route is the finishing movement and features; the rock cleans up a lot once the difficulty eases and the top third of this route could be a fun and worthwhile toprope appropriate for people who've just led MJ11b and feel like a little extra milage. The quality of the first crux is high but this is not a destination route for those climbing the grade by any means with the proximity of the Glass House, Imagination Wall, the Roost, and the Hood.

Location

Just left of Mary Jane 11b

Protection

Bolts-some hard to clip.

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