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Walking the Plank (aka The Buzz)

5.11c, Sport, 75 ft (23 m),  Avg: 3.6 from 61 votes
FA: Mark Thomas
New Mexico > El Rito > El Rito Sport Area > Pirate's Wall
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Description

There is a difficult start to a high first bolt. You get a good rest ledge before starting up the increasingly steep top section. Crux near the top. Big holds on an overhanging wall - great route for working on endurance.

Location

Long fun route up the middle of Pirates Wall. 8th route from the left, just left of "Terror on the High Seas".

Protection

10 Bolts

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Way up high on the route working through the crux of the route. November 2008.
[Hide Photo] Way up high on the route working through the crux of the route. November 2008.
Greta leading up the sea of cobbles
[Hide Photo] Greta leading up the sea of cobbles

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Fun route, probably the best route on Pirates wall, Long John is quite good as well. Watch for the nice resting jug just before the crux on the left. You can throw an arm over it and get a nice rest for the crux crimpy bulge ahead. Make it past the crux and the difficulties ease up for the few feet left to the anchors. This route wouldn't be nearly as hard if the crux was lower on the route.

I also seem to remember Mark Thomas being the FA for this route. Jun 29, 2007
[Hide Comment] Great route. Missed that arm-dangler jug, DTP, but enough good shakeouts along the way to pull through the high crux. I hadn't been on it in a few years, and was amazed to find the bee hive (just to the left about 2/3 of the way up) as active as ever. Sep 21, 2008
[Hide Comment] Had a real scare on this route when at the last bolt a football sized foothold broke off and nearly hit my wife below. I would say continue to watch for choss to the left of the last two bolts. Apr 13, 2011
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.11b
[Hide Comment]
Dave Wachter on Sep 21, 2008 wrote:...I hadn't been on it in a few years, and was amazed to find the bee hive (just to the left about 2/3 of the way up) as active as ever.
Over ten years later and that beehive is still plenty active! That said, I've climbed the route numerous times while the honey bees flew in, out and around the hive hueco and have never had an issue. I've retrieved many bail biners from the eighth bolt likely on account of the bee activity. :) Oct 29, 2018
[Hide Comment] 7th bolt is loose, Beehive still lives! Top Notch route Sep 15, 2020
Kim
 
[Hide Comment] Beehive is still there as of 7/2023 and doesn't look to be going anywhere, but feels far enough from the route that they shouldn't bother you. The holds on the crux are smaller than the rest of the climb but I didn't think they were super crimpy. Jul 21, 2023