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Routes in Parking Lot Rock

4 star 5.9 S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Billy Goat T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cling Plus S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Five O'Clock Shadow S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hellbilly T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Iron Horse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jedi Magic S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Leech Master T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nice Cleavage T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Scape Goat T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sleight of Hand T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Smoke and Mirrors S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Two Cams are Better Than None T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Vicki Gill T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Rick Shull, 1989
Page Views: 140 total · 1/month
Shared By: Rick Shull on Jun 28, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is the striking (for a forty foot route) dihedral and roof crack facing the parking lot. Jam and stem the dihedral before traversing right and then turn the roof for the final short upper crack moves.

Location

This is the crack 10 feet right of Five O'clock Shadow.

Protection

Gear to 3 inches and gear anchor.

Photos

Colin Schour
Big Bear Lake, CA
 
Colin Schour   Big Bear Lake, CA
 
I thought this was a very fun route.

A somewhat sketchy number two (C4) in a flared crack/hole protects the crux after the roof. Nov 3, 2011