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Freebase

5.12a, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 3.7 from 76 votes
FA: Dan Goodwin, 1987
Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (f) Cocaine Gully
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Description

A Smith classic with bomber, vertical stone and excellent climbing. After a mid height technical crux this route turns to sweet reaches between incut crimps. The good climbing seems to go on forever!

Location

Freebase starts just to the left of Vomit Lunch and up on a higher level. Be careful at the belay ledge as it is easy to send rocks (or a person) down on to climbers below. Stick clipping the first bolt is a very good idea (and I think stickclipping is usually kind of wimpy:).

Protection

Bolts

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Working through the moves
[Hide Photo] Working through the moves
Freebase is the thin middle line; Vomit Launch on the right.
[Hide Photo] Freebase is the thin middle line; Vomit Launch on the right.
Onsight attempt
[Hide Photo] Onsight attempt

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
 
[Hide Comment] This is definitely a killer line with fun moves on perfect rock, but I did find the movement to be somewhat committing. The bolt line is a wee bit spaced and consistently off to the left side of the holds. I took a 15 footer off the crux, so don't expect to be pulling the hard moves with a bolt at your chest... Jun 13, 2012
CritConrad
Bend, OR
[Hide Comment] While belaying a friend on this I found that with having the 1st bolt clipped, it was very hard to give a soft catch. As max was saying, any fall results in a decent sized whipper and the first bolt is weirdly positioned only a few feet above you from where you belay. We found softer catches were possible by stick clipping the second bolt. If you think that is lame, then expect somewhat of a hard catch, or just send the route! Mar 26, 2014
[Hide Comment] caveat emptor - the top two glue in bolts move about 20-45 degrees in their hole. Aug 22, 2016
Brendan O'Dea
Portland, OR
[Hide Comment] Bolts appear to have been re-glued. Mar 5, 2017
Franck Vee
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] Great route. That's a very limit grade for me, not even sure I can redpoint that soon, but I really enjoyed it.

Regarding the setup: bolts are spaced but the falls are clean, even if as mentioned it's hard to give a soft catch with 1st bolt clip & belayer anchored (and belayer should be anchored). The only *potentially* sketchy & spaced bolt would be the 3rd... BUT the difficult moves are just above the 2nd, once you are close to/at the 3rd you have a bomber jug to clip with so there's not reason, if you made it after the bouldery start, to fall with dangerous amount of slack in hands. The bolts above are indeed spaced out, Smith rocks style, but still safely so given the clean vertical & lots of air below you.

For the climb itself: great technical positioning, the hard bits have no good feet to speak of but plenty of tiny spots to smear/kind of edge a foot on. This is a climb where position is much more important than the quality of the hold, both for hands and feet. You find yourself hanging seemingly on nothing yet hanging if you position yourself well. The bouldery start, with the lip, great undercling and farrr reach out to an okay sidepull makes for a fun start, if very different in style from the rest. Jul 6, 2017
sean w
Seattle, WA
[Hide Comment] A bouldery start right off the deck is immediately followed by vintage Smith Rock nubbing, edging, and pocket hunting. A thin crux comes a few bolts from the top.

As mentioned below, it's easier to give a good belay by stick clipping the second bolt as opposed to the first. You can use the belay bolt and a clove hitch to lean off over the edge if your stick clip isn't quite long enough to reach the 2nd bolt from the somewhat exposed ledge. May 29, 2019
Robert Gaston
Bend, Or
[Hide Comment] Are you just breaking into 5.12 and coming from the red, ten sleep, or red rock? Do you like tiny crimps, intricate foot work, feeling gripped, and bailing? Then this is the route for you! Hoooollllyyyyyyyyyy moly! Jun 21, 2020
Austin Imperial
Seattle, WA
 
[Hide Comment] stellar climb. every move is fun. Oct 26, 2021
Paul P
Bend
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] Really good route!! I personally believe that Freebase and Five easy pieces are the two stiffest 12a at smith. Both worth the endeavor :)

All falls on Freebase are safe, but there is a slightly committing section between spaced bolts right before the crux Jun 2, 2023