Mountain Project Logo

Rocket in My Pocket

5.12a, Sport, 45 ft (14 m),  Avg: 2 from 1 vote
FA: Adam Read, Jean DeLataillade, Leslie Coon
New Mexico > Jemez Mountains… > Capulin Canyon… > Cochiti Mesa > S Cliffband

Description

This route begins as for Finger in the Socket, on the prominent, square-cut arete. Ascend juggy flakes and pockets on the steep left side of the arete, reaching around the arete easily to clip. It may be possible to slab up the right side along the bolts, but it doesn't look too fun. A good rest atop the slab/arete offers the last chance to bail onto the apparently easier Finger In the Socket.

From the rest continue left up the steepening wall on small but positive pockets. Take a final shake before the thin, sharp crux on small crimps with poor feet. A hard-to-see four-inger bucket delivers you to an easy mantle and slabby finish.

Location

This is the first bolted route right/south of the rockslide. This route shares the first four bolts with Finger in the Socket, then moves left, passing two more bolts, before moving back right to the share anchors with Finger In the Socket.

Protection

6 Bolts, 2 bolt chain anchor. One of the few routes on this seection of cliff with a quality anchor.