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Aviary

5.8+, Sport, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 3 from 61 votes
FA: Alan Hirahara, 2000
California > Eastern Sierra > Mammoth Lakes Area > Al's Garage

Description

Climb up the wall to the left of the obvious corner, until possible to stem the corner and hand jam the crack. The corner is the crux.

After the corner fun climbing on jugs follows all the way to the anchors.

Location

Situated just right of the arete of Sound of One Hand Slapping.

Protection

10 bolts, 2 open shut anchors

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Upper section of the Aviary, completing the steep bits.
[Hide Photo] Upper section of the Aviary, completing the steep bits.
visiting austrian climber on aviary
[Hide Photo] visiting austrian climber on aviary
The crux corner of Aviary.
[Hide Photo] The crux corner of Aviary.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

BAd
  5.9
[Hide Comment] HuGe fun! The upper section has a lot of overhanging moves on big holds. Go do it. Jan 16, 2011
[Hide Comment] Someone stole the carabineer at the anchor, thanks. Sep 14, 2015
Todd Townsend
Bishop, CA
  5.9
[Hide Comment] This is a great climb, but seemed really hard for the grade, especially compared to the 5.8's just down the road at Clark Canyon. Oct 13, 2015
Scott Rogers
Moab, UT
  5.8+
[Hide Comment] The dihedral is the only part worth doing on this route. The rest is awfully poor rock quality, and as is traditional in this area, potential ledge falls while clipping several of the upper bolts. May 31, 2016
BAd
  5.9
[Hide Comment] I going to have to agree with Todd on this one. 5.8 seems a bit of a sandbag for this one. The rock is plenty solid. I've never broken a hold or edge, and the upper overhanging jugs are just great! I love this route, but it probably is 5.9.

BAd

PS: We replaced the 'biner on the middle bolt to back up the worn cold-shuts. Leave it! Jun 21, 2017
Alistair Veitch
Mammoth Lakes, CA / Whangar…
  5.8+
[Hide Comment] Its no harder than 5.8. Crux move is probably in the dihedral where you have a stem on smaller holds, but you have absolutely bomber hand jams available. Jul 23, 2017
Cody M
Mammoth Lakes
  5.9
[Hide Comment] To me this felt pretty tough for 5.8, harder than east side daze the upper overhang felt like the crux for me. Oct 19, 2021
Connor Novak
No longer SF
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Led the first half on gear, two separate fun sections:
Main corner: The business, hands to OW, (#1-#3), both hands and right foot in seam, left foot on face
2nd corner: Instead of following bolts right, go left into a second corner with a thin finger crack in the back. (.1 - .4) Climbs like a chimney.
Finish on upper bolt line (3 bolts, 4 if you clip the one at the top of the 2nd corner).
First section w/o face holds feels .9 to .10a, harder at the offwidth section
2nd corner is fun, bumps the climb to 4 stars in my book. Jun 26, 2023