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Routes in Al's Garage

Acrophobia S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Aviary S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chase the Dragon S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chronic S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dharma T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
East Side Days S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
East Side Daze S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jhana S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Karma T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Kill The Buddha S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Middle Way S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
On the Fringe S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Samadhi S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sangha S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sound of One Hand Slapping S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Triple Delight S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Vertigo S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wake-n-Bake S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Yin and Yang T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Alan Hirahara, 2000
Page Views: 899 total, 7/month
Shared By: Euan Cameron on Jun 25, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Climb up the wall to the left of the obvious corner, until possible to stem the corner and hand jam the crack. The corner is the crux.

After the corner fun climbing on jugs follows all the way to the anchors.

Location

Situated just right of the arete of Sound of One Hand Slapping.

Protection

10 bolts, 2 open shut anchors

Photos

Alistair Veitch
Mountain View, CA
  5.8+
Alistair Veitch   Mountain View, CA
  5.8+
Its no harder than 5.8. Crux move is probably in the dihedral where you have a stem on smaller holds, but you have absolutely bomber hand jams available. Jul 23, 2017
BAd
  5.9
BAd  
  5.9
I going to have to agree with Todd on this one. 5.8 seems a bit of a sandbag for this one. The rock is plenty solid. I've never broken a hold or edge, and the upper overhanging jugs are just great! I love this route, but it probably is 5.9.

BAd

PS: We replaced the 'biner on the middle bolt to back up the worn cold-shuts. Leave it! Jun 21, 2017
Scott Rogers
Moab, UT
  5.8+
Scott Rogers   Moab, UT
  5.8+
The dihedral is the only part worth doing on this route. The rest is awfully poor rock quality, and as is traditional in this area, potential ledge falls while clipping several of the upper bolts. May 31, 2016
Todd Townsend
Bishop, CA
  5.9
Todd Townsend   Bishop, CA
  5.9
This is a great climb, but seemed really hard for the grade, especially compared to the 5.8's just down the road at Clark Canyon. Oct 13, 2015
Jeff Scheuerell  
  5.9
Someone stole the carabineer at the anchor, thanks. Sep 14, 2015
BAd
  5.9
BAd  
  5.9
HuGe fun! The upper section has a lot of overhanging moves on big holds. Go do it. Jan 16, 2011