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Flesh for Fantasy

5.11a, Trad, Sport, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 2.4 from 42 votes
FA: Gordon Douglas 1987
Idaho > S Idaho > City of Rocks > Breadloaves > Decadent Wall
Warning Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) No trash cans. (3) Highlining temporary ban in place for CIRO and CRSP DetailsDrop down

Description

Flesh for Fantasy climbs moderate cracks to the base of a bolted headwall. It is easy to approach by rapping to the ledge below the headwall and pulling your rope.

Follow ~4 bolts through thin 5.10 face climbing to an interesting undercling stand up move to a good hold. It is a one move wonder, but worth the effort.

Location

This line is directly below the rap line to the right of Carol's Crack

Protection

4 bolts on the headwall, and gear for the lower cracks...

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] The normal way to start this follows easy climbing up and left from below the base then back right to the base of the bolted headwall. I climbed a direct route to the base of the bolted headwall, right up the center of the V feature. It was really quite good. It is probably about 5.10- and has reasonably good gear, probably about PG-13. I thought doing this direct to the bolted face is excellent and the whole thing would deserve three stars. Aug 27, 2007
Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] +1 for Ben's comment about the bottom. You can skip the left-trending easy "chimney" by climbing bulgy easy terrain then step across the gap to a thin crack that fades out about 8' below the ledge where the bolted face starts. Small nuts and cams up to a .5 protect this start adequately.
The patina is great with one stopped move followed by a bit of thin climbing with bad feet. Apr 30, 2013