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Routes in Heartbreaker

Heartbreaker T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Surfing the Orgasmic Wave S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Reid Dowdle 1984
Page Views: 2,011 total, 16/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Jun 25, 2007
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

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Description

Heartbreaker is a classic line, which does not see a lot of traffic due to its location. The next time you are at Boxtop or The Odyssey, you should stop and check out this beauty. It is one of the better 5.10 trad lines at the City.

Follow the thin leaning hand crack to the crux move entering the dihedral. The crack above eases to easy 5.10 with good jams and gear. Save at least one #2 camalot for the anchor, which is hand size gear.

Location

This route is located on the north side of the rock and starts on a exposed ledge that is gained by a low fifth class scramble.

Protection

2 sets of cams from .5 - 2 camalot, 2-3 lg nuts

bring an extra .75 and 1, if you want to sew it up

Photos

303scott
5.10
303scott  
5.10
Way better to approach this route from counterclockwise- much less bushwacking. Very nice route, very questionable anchor. Felt more like 5.10. Jun 20, 2017
Brent Barghahn
SLC, UT
 
Brent Barghahn   SLC, UT
 
Route is no more than 40', has some tricky slab moves on the approach, and a poor approach trail. The climbing is worth while, but I'd recommend hauling your bags up and walking off towards Boxtop to catch the main trail for a better overall experience. Large hand sized pieces for the belay, and thin hands for most of the climb. Sep 7, 2016
Doug Joness
logan, ut
 
Doug Joness   logan, ut
 
I placed one .5, two .75s, one 1 and one 2. Could have placed another .75 but only had the .5. Rap "anchor" looked sketchy, an old broken sling and some newish cord around a thin flake. We walked off towards Boxtop. Approach from the right, the left is sketchy slab we didn't want to do in approach shoes and backpacks. Very nice route. Mar 21, 2016
Re: the rappel anchor. It looked sketchy enough that I sought out alternatives after following the route. If you walk straight back from the top-out and trend slightly right, you'll be deposited on terra firma in a couple of minutes. It took me all of about five minutes to get back to our packs near the base of the route. Jun 19, 2015
Ryan Arnold
  5.10+
Ryan Arnold  
  5.10+
I didn't need the knee guard but I would love it if someone placed some rap anchors; currently you've got a few slings partially hung around a manky flake. This climb is the Incredible Hand Crack of the City, really fun hand jams. Jun 19, 2015
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
 
Sooo Good. Tape up. The route needs no beta - just look at it, get ready, go. Total knee lock rests up high (wear a left knee brace/sleeve). Sep 27, 2011