Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Mission Gorge Traverse

5.8, Trad, 100 ft,  Avg: 3.4 from 33 votes
FA: A Long Time Ago
California > San Diego > S SD > Mission Gorge > Main Wall
Access Issue: Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

A very unique experience in the heart of Mision Gorge. Traverse along the top of the Main Wall. We did left to right but it probably goes well both ways. Decent hand jams in a horizontal crack that splits the entire main wall. Feet tend to be greasy as usual at the Gorge. Many awkward moves throughout the climb but no real show stoppers. The holds just open up right when you need them. Make sure to protect your second! Only follow this route if you would also feel comfortable leading it.

Location

Start at the top of Crack of Dust. Rightmost anchor on the ledge. Finish on top of a pillar of The Wasp.

Protection

Full rack from Black Alien to #4 Camalot. Nuts not that useful. Slings to clip rusty anchors along the way.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

[Hide Photo] untitled
Following the Mission Gorge Traverse.  Keeps you thinking.
[Hide Photo] Following the Mission Gorge Traverse. Keeps you thinking.
cramped
[Hide Photo] cramped
where's that next greasy foot?
[Hide Photo] where's that next greasy foot?
humpin' the bump
[Hide Photo] humpin' the bump
streeeetch
[Hide Photo] streeeetch
b/w beauty
[Hide Photo] b/w beauty
1/4 thru on a right-to-left traverse
[Hide Photo] 1/4 thru on a right-to-left traverse

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Fun route, possibly easier right to left (I felt)...somehow the greasier feet hooked up better that way. Only used pro to 2" myself... Oct 25, 2010
T.J. Esposito
San Diego, CA
[Hide Comment] I was following this today and one of the three bird littered blocks at the top of Nutcracker, the nice one you can hug, broke free while i was hugging it (probably about the size of my upper torso or so?). Thankfully it wasn't while climbing Nutcracker, it would have been a horrible fall and incredibly dangerous (likely deadly if hit head-on) for the belayer.

Careful with the sheltered bird-harboring rocks at MG! Jun 12, 2011
ron amick
poway, ca
[Hide Comment] Be sure to place protection for the follower! If you run it out you will leave him looking at a grounder. Jan 7, 2012
AlexK
 
[Hide Comment] Super fun route. I found gear of all sizes to be useful, even nuts. This is an equal opportunity crack. Moving over the bulges near the top of nutcracker can be tricky, but I found the slippery feet near the finish to be the crux. Jan 21, 2012
[Hide Comment] 70m rope was nice for the rap. Was able to do it in one rap from the R with just enough to get to the ground.

Split the climb into 2 pitches. Made an anchor at the crusty bolts with a backup halfway. Used mostly small gear (Mastercam 1-3, BD >1). Nov 21, 2018