Type: TR, 30 ft
FA: Stone Masters mid 1970's
Page Views: 6,745 total · 47/month
Shared By: Will S on Jun 24, 2007
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


40 Opinions

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

A classic and steep thin hands to fingers crack. Usually TR'ed but occasionally soloed. Nice hang spot at the base, and it gets shade most of the day.

Location

This route is located on a giant boulder on an island in the river. Park at the Arch Rock entrance, walk up the road through the arched rock and to the point where the lanes of the road merge back together and a stone wall starts on the river side. Drop down to the river at the near end of the wall, and cross on easy boulder hopping to the obvious huge boulder. The route is on the downstream side.

Protection

TR off a 3/8" bolt. Back it up with a medium nut or finger sized cam. Scramble to the top from the corridor behind the route by using the arete/edge or straight up a weakness directly below. Could be led with a few thin hands to off-finger sized pieces, with an optional finger sized piece.

Photos

m-earle
USA
m-earle   USA
Exellent line. Defininately worth checkinging out if you dig crack problems. Oct 9, 2007
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
Worth leading, if only to practice placing gear while hanging off of difficult jams. Take a #1, #.75, and #.5 Camalot. Great location, and a good place to jump in the river on a hot day. Mar 24, 2008
Ian G.
PDX, OR
  5.11c
Ian G.   PDX, OR
  5.11c
I'd second that, definitely worth leading. May 22, 2009
Worth leading, tr-ing, mini-ing, and soloing.

This area is down canyon so it is great in the winter. But don't leave this one off of your summer list either. It is under the shade of the trees and the river is literally right there waiting to cool you off.

My friend Jason Price and I use to hang a fixed line from it and play a game. Using mini-traxions, one of us would start up it. When that person reached the top, the second would start up while the first person down climbed the back side and ran around to the front. This would be repeated until the faster one could touch the slower one. Good times! Oct 14, 2011
Jordan Cannon
Bishop, CA
 
Jordan Cannon   Bishop, CA
 
Great problem. Reminds me of Mount Woodson in San Diego. Pretty steep, hard if you have big hands, but great jamming practice for thin hands and ring locks until you get to a good finger lock at the end. Still accessible in the spring with clever boulder hopping Apr 3, 2016
Aaron Josephs
San Francisco, CA
Aaron Josephs   San Francisco, CA
Anyone else find the scramble up the backside sketchy, it was higher than I expected lol. Next time I'm throwing the rope over the top Sep 27, 2018
John RB
Superior, CO
John RB   Superior, CO
Aaron,

I did that scramble up the back in 1989 after I had been climbing for 1 month. I was setting a TR for my much-stronger partner, and I nearly wet myself. A couple of years later it was casual, but still called for some care. :) Dec 7, 2018