PRINT: Rock Climb False Lieback, Joshua Tree National Park

False Lieback

5.4, Trad, 60 ft (18 m),

Avg: 2.3 from 120 votes
FA: John Wolfe & Dick James, December 1968
California > Joshua Tree NP > Central Joshua… > Sheep Pass Area > Cap Rock Area > Cap Rock > Cap Rock - N Face

Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

This climbs the big right-facing corner on the Northeast Face of Cap Rock. The route faces toward the main road and is in shade all day in the winter. Start behind a clump of bushes near some boulders. Scramble up and left to reach the base of the corner. At the top, belay on a flat ledge to the left of the corner (finger-sized gear). Scramble off to the right (toward Beaver Boulder).

Protection

Pro to 3".

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

"False Lieback". Photo by Blitzo.

Jessica finishing up on the tips lieback at the top.

Al-Insan cleans as I belay after completing my first trad lead on False Lieback.

North side of Cap Rock, showing False Lieback.

Lower contrast beta photo, shows the face and crack better.

Magic 5.3!!! Photo ELP!

Looking down from the top. The route is the lower crack system.

Taco Belaying James up False Lieback

Aaron atop False Lieback after leading and then doing a second lap on TR.

False Lieback is the purple line. Nutcracker is the darker blue line and Thin Ice is the magenta line.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Doug99

5.4

Fun route to practice hand and fist jams. Dec 9, 2010

Mary Moser
Kirkland, AZ

5.2

For some reason I felt this climb was a LOT easier than Nutcracker. It felt like a 5.2 rating to me. This would be an excellent climb for a beginner leader since there is pro everywhere. May 22, 2011

Rob Selter
running springs Ca

great route to introduce someone to basic crack climbing. Feb 28, 2012

Jan Tarculas
Riverside, Ca

5.4

such a fun climb for the grade. I used a #3 to protect the crux for me. Dec 26, 2012

Shayna H
San Diego, CA

We found that the crack above the "false lieback" was more the size of a BD 3 than a 2, so bring a couple or you might risk a run-out. Oct 19, 2016

Adam Stackhouse

Tons of protection at a modest grade make for a fun novice lead. Mar 16, 2019

Ismael Chivite
Redlands, CA

Climbed this one on Jan 20 2020. It looked like an obvious climb from the road and we gave it a go. It is a nice route, easy to climb and easy to protect. In our party of three, we all agreed that this route was more difficult than karpkwitz in Trashcan rock. mountainproject.com/route/1… Jan 20, 2020

Zack Muad'dib
Indianapolis

Some placements up before the first dihedral move make for bad rope drag. Consider bumping pieces or extending far out with alpines for when you move around the first corner, then the second. Nov 2, 2020

Ben Crowell
Fullerton

5.6

5.4 would definitely be a 1968 J Tree rating. More like 5.6 IMO. The fist crack worked for me without laybacking. Maybe that's the reason for the name? The short section at the top is a fingertip layback with an overhang where your head wants to be. It seems intimidating, but actually feels solid once you get the layback locked in. Nov 20, 2020

Aaron Sefton
Lakewood, CO

5.6

On lead, this definitely felt a couple grades harder than 5.4. The crux for me was turning the corner on bottom third of route and then first couple of fist/arm jams above the corner. I did it again on TR with a little more perspective and found it to be easier the second time, of course, but still thought it was harder than "Barely Crankin'," a 5.5 at The Manure Pile in Ryan CG: mountainproject.com/route/1… Jul 7, 2023