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Routes in Zeus

Northeast Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A0
Sisyphus T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Type: Trad, Aid, 300 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Eric Bjornstad, Fred Beckey, Sept., 1970
Page Views: 2,880 total, 23/month
Shared By: toddgordon Gordon on Jun 22, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This climb had a tiny bit of free climbing, and then mostly all aid off many bolts. There were 35 bolts on this climb, but the bolts were removed, and this climb no longer exists.

Location

This climb went up the northeast ridge of Zeus.

Protection

You USED to need alot of quick draws and a few cams.(# 2 and # 4 friend)
Highclmbr
Phoenix, AZ
Highclmbr   Phoenix, AZ
To Ben's comment above, the compressor route on Cerro Torre did die the same fate, sorry.

climberism.com/cerro-torres… Jan 28, 2013
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
Without the bolts it'll probably go at around 5.16 X. A 35 bolt ladder on Wingate doesn't sound like a great free climbing project. Oct 25, 2010
Jamie Princo
Boulder, CO
Jamie Princo   Boulder, CO
someone removed the bolts?!?!? come on!

my heart just jumped after discovering there was a 5.7/A0 on zeus, then sank while reading about the bolts. that sucks. does canyonlands no bolts ethics prevent bolts from being replaced in the old slots once again since it's not further scarring the rock? what do you think the route goes without the bolts? 5.9?

jamie Oct 21, 2010
I agree that it it is indeed sad that somebody eliminated this route. Glad I was able to do it back in the 80s with Carolina Petrelli and Dougal McCarty when it was still "in". Without any guidebooks back then, it was quite an adventure doing it We had a blast as I recall, and consider it a blasphemy that someone decided to chop a classic route in a beautiful setting. Wish I could just go "run" up it again sometime. Dec 18, 2009
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
Nope. There really aren't any holes. Who ever chopped this route did kinda that: chopped it. Most of the holes still have a bolt in them, with a mangled and/or flattened hanger. Some are bolt shafts. Didn't recall any holes. Looks aweful. Apr 8, 2008
Kurt Johnson
Estes Park, CO
Kurt Johnson   Estes Park, CO
Are the bolt holes in good shape and useable enough for removable bolts like those made by Climb Tech? Apr 8, 2008
Ken Trout
Golden, CO
Ken Trout   Golden, CO
Back in the clean-climbin' seventies I used to hear a lot of Beckey bad-mouthing. Always by gumbies who couldn't do his routes. Even this one!

Thanks for posting this one Todd. Jan 11, 2008
To quote Eric in DR 1, "Bolts placed on the historic first ascent were chopped by an unknown party playing God, leaving behind the graffiti of bolt-hole scars."

Pretty lame that someone would chop another person’s route, especially when it is in the middle of the dessert. Jul 12, 2007
John J. Glime
Salt Lake City, UT
John J. Glime   Salt Lake City, UT
was it chopped? were the bolts removed? can it be "retro-fitted"? Jul 9, 2007
What a shame. Hopefully the Compressor Route does not have the same fate. Jun 23, 2007