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Routes in Qual Wall

A Red Recollection S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Block Party TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Crack left of Leftwing T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Espionage S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fahrenheit 23 S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Great White Top Rope TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Leftwing S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Long Time Coming V3-4 6A+
More Choss Than Moss TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Nordwand, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Now or Never S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Nut Job T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Purple Jeep TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Quail Stew T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Schizophrenia S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Secret Agent Man S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Slab Me Harder S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Slab Right S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sobriety Test S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Top Rope Hero TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Tramadol S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Unknown / "Meaner than Green" S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unlisted Number S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport
FA: JJ Schlick
Page Views: 2,581 total · 19/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Jun 22, 2007
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description [Suggest Change]

Schizophrenia climbs the left hand version of the two routes on the first tall golden wall. They share the first 4 bolts. Crux at about 2/3 height leads to some amazing jugs up high.

Location [Suggest Change]

First wall you come to when walking up the trail from the horse trail.

Protection [Suggest Change]

9 bolts with 2 chain anchors. Bring draws for the top if you plan to lower or TR.

Photos

Tradiban
  5.11+
Tradiban  
  5.11+
Huston calls this "Mean and Green" in his topo found here: scribd.com/document/7453484… Jun 26, 2009
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
  5.11+
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
  5.11+
These two routes share the first 4 bolts, then diverge. Different anchors. Climbs very differently if you stay left of the bolts at the crux overhanging bulge or right of the bolt line. Sep 17, 2009
Tradiban
  5.11+
Tradiban  
  5.11+
Good route, it seems to me now that the route crux at the bulge is right of the bolts and the crux bolt is easily clipped off a jug.

It looked like left of the bolts there were decent holds but no more and to climb them would be a 12+ effort. Mar 7, 2010
Tradiban
  5.11+
Tradiban  
  5.11+
I climbed left of the bolts at the bulge today, a touch harder than right of the bolts, probably 5.12a. Mar 23, 2010
Tradiban
  5.11+
Tradiban  
  5.11+
Chris, all routes now have leaver biners except SAM and those anchors to the left of SAM for Top Rope Hero. You are all welcome. Mar 23, 2010
randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
 
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
 
Super fun crux, btw. some holds have broken there, as well. makes for some exciting moves. Nov 5, 2011
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
  5.11+
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
  5.11+
I used to think staying left of the bolts at the crux bulge overhang was harder than staying right, but I climbed both ways again recently and I think they are about the same now. Maybe holds have broken over the past few years? Jun 26, 2017
Justin Meyer
Madison, WI
Justin Meyer   Madison, WI
Many of the holds in the middle, easier part of this route are thin and fragile. I've seen two experienced climbers take good-sized, awkward falls after holds broke there (not due to wet rock). Don’t depend on one thin piece of rock to support a move! Use large holds and distribute your weight across multiple points. It’s not a fun place to fall, even on top rope, because the wall is not even close to vertical and the rock is jagged. Even if you don’t care about falling or sending a rock down on your belayer it’s good to preserve the character of the route for future climbers. Dec 5, 2017

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