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Routes in Below The Old New Place

Adam Ant (aka Nuclear Ant Farm) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Color of My Potion S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fat Boys Don't Fly S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Flesh-Eating Gnats S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Got a Nightstick, Got a Gun, Got Time on My Hands S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Greg Shredder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
I Dogged Your Wife and She is a Doofus S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Inflight Movie S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Instant Dogma S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
L Dopa T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Little Shop Of Horrors S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Manic Crack (aka Left Twin Crack) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Manic Nirvana S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Monsterpiece Theatre S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Oscar de La Cholla T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
P.M.S. S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pathogenic Cysts S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Polyester Terror T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Putterman Cracks T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ralph's Dilemma T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ralph's Leisure Suit S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ralph's Revenge T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Right Twin Crack (aka Lost Nerve) T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Route 1 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route 22 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Route 24 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Route 25 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Route 26 T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route 27 S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Route 31 S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Route 32 T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sardonic Smile S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Scandanavian Airlines S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Strong Urge to Fly S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wailing Banshees S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Mike Schillaci, 7/89
Page Views: 972 total, 8/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Jun 22, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


21 Opinions

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Description

Scandanavian Airlines is the first bolted arete you come to at the BONP (the southernmost bolted climb at the crag). Because it's one of the easier sport climbs at BONP, many choose to warm up on this route before bumping up to the 1st Class aretes such as Flesh-Eating Gnats and Wailing Banshees. However, the harder-than-expected thin crux at the top has let climbers accumulate many frequent flyer miles on Scandanavian Airlines.

Start just right of the arete, using small pockets and small ledges for handholds. At the 3rd bolt, things get thinner, use smaller crimps on the left-hand face and a monopocket just right of the arete. After the thin crux moves, you'll get to the first set of chains. You can continue past this anchor to another 3-bolt anchor (that of Monsterpiece Theatre and Inflight Movie), but is really only worth it if you want to set a TR on those climbs.

Leaders near their limit may find the 2nd bolt to be unnervingly high and the 3rd bolt to be difficult to clip.

This climb is a good way to reach the anchor for Inflight Movie and Monsterpiece Theatre if you want to toprope those classic 5.12s but aren't quite up for leading them.

Protection

3 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor; or continue to another (3-bolt) anchor, shared with Monsterpiece Theatre and Inflight Movie.

Photos

J. Albers
Colorado
  5.10d
J. Albers   Colorado
  5.10d
This route is such a pile that it hardly seems worth commenting on, but since my comment really applies to the whole area, I will say it anyway.

I truly appreciate the effort of whomever replaced one of the aging bolts on this thing, but in the future, please consider doing a better job getting the old stud out and camouflaging the old hole. The stud that remains at the third bolt is a real eyesore and if all of the bolts at WR were replaced in such a manner, the cliffs would look hideous.

If anyone needs info on how to replace old hardware (including camouflaging old holes and many other bolting topics), you can find it on the ASCA website here:

safeclimbing.org/education.htm

Best. Jan 5, 2011
Arthur Sullivan
Albuquerque,NM
Arthur Sullivan   Albuquerque,NM
I was cruising right along and then the holds disappeared. Its a short crux but I think you could make the case for 11.a Apr 9, 2010
Jason Hundhausen
Bozeman, MT
  5.10d
Jason Hundhausen   Bozeman, MT
  5.10d
I agree with Michael - pretty stiff for 10c. May be easier if you have smaller fingers that will fit in the pockets below the 3rd bolt. Fun climb overall though. Apr 15, 2008
Michael Sokoloff
Spokane, WA
Michael Sokoloff   Spokane, WA
Wow did this climb seem hard for the grade! Oct 1, 2007