Type: Trad, Sport, 4 pitches
FA: Gordon Briody, Dave Bale, Viktor Kramar 1998
Page Views: 6,237 total · 34/month
Shared By: ScottH on Jun 21, 2007
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

You & This Route


59 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
-none-
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Heart of Gold is a fine multi-pitch journey up the bulk of Duty Dome. Excellent face climbing and thoughtfully placed bolts make for a pleasantly hard climb up beautiful stone.

P1. Begin at the left side of a long roof, following bolts up and then right to a crystal-laden slab and the anchor.

P2. Traverse directly right from the belay, following an obvious hand crack under a roof and around the corner. Trend up and right to the anchor.

P3. The meat. A delicate section off the belay leads to 30m of friction face climbing. The burn you will develop in your calves is worth it.

P4. Easier face climbing leads to a belay near the top of the dome.

Location

To descend, scramble off the right side of the dome, and walk down the gully between Duty Dome and Warrior Wall. Rappel slings are in place on most of the anchors, but rappelling the route after the second pitch would certainly require some improvisation.

Protection

Mostly bolt protected, with a few pieces up to 1". A pink tricam fits nicely in a runout on the first pitch. One or two pieces will protect the P2 traverse for the second, and a small microcam or alien can be placed for the timid low on P3.

Photos