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Stormy Resurrection
5.11b,
Trad, 80 ft (24 m),
Avg: 3.3 from 84
votes
FA: John Storm and Bret Ruckman ?
Utah
> Wasatch Range
> Central Wasatch
> Little Cottonwo…
> Green Adjective Gully
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed. Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Great Route. Slightly Overhanging big finger crack at the start. (not as intimidating as that usually sounds) Move up and left at the top of this crack to exit out around the corner. Just above is a horizontal crack. Traverse left in it for 10 feet or so and then pull the big-hands to fist to offwidth exit. Excellent!
Location
Up the Green A Gully. Just up from Looney Tunes/Mother of Pearl. This route is located on the opposite side of the gully from Loony Tunes.
Descent: From the offwidth section... move left on slabby rock to a 2 bolt rap anchor in some brush. A single rope will get you to the ground.
Protection
I believe that I took... 3-4 0.5 Camalots for the start varied gear for the traverse (stoppers and assortment of small cams. 0.4 - 1 camalot) a #3 and a #4 camalot come in handy for the exit.
There is one bolt on the route at the stemming move from the finger crack to the horizontal crack.
[Hide Comment] This is a really interesting and fun route! Go do it. Bring some .75 BD cams/ red metolius for the start as well. Also a #1 BD protects the hand travere really well.
Sep 8, 2008
[Hide Comment] Climbed this route on 09-06 and couldn't find the anchors and did the walk off LOL. Did a sketchy traverse under a huge boulder and downclimbed to the wheels on fire belay ledge. Didn't get it clean but know what to do now, next time I will look a little harder for the anchors. Really cool route, lots of different styles of moves, cant wait to give it another go!
Sep 8, 2009
[Hide Comment] Seems imperative that one would mention this route is located in a huge cave. Climb up stacked blocks into the cave to see the finger crack on the west wall. The bolt seems like a good idea, but by the time you can clip it you are in the clear so I'm not sure why its there. Fun climbing. Don't leave the ground without your #4 camalot or you will be sorry as you thrutch up the final 10 feet onto the slab. Brand new anchors on slab left of crack allow for easy descent. I believe they were placed due to the ridiculously difficult looking bolted/fixed copperhead route left of stormy. Regardless, easy descent.
May 19, 2012
[Hide Comment] Fun stuff. If you're worried about the overhanging crack bring some extra .75, seems to be the ticket size. Holds are really positive incuts so it's easier than it looks. Probably three cruxes: getting out of the crack past the bolt, the traverse after the rest, and then maneuvering the 3 to 4 camalot sized crack. I didn't use my 4 because I wanted that spot for my calf!
May 21, 2017
[Hide Comment] A bit of history on this climb. There was a first accent sometime before Bret and I got on it, and that party placed the 1/4" bolt. I don't know if they went out the off-width at the top or not, I don't think so. Likely they backed off that bolt. Being 11b and the age of the bolt and the fact that none of us in LCC knew anything about the history of it (most didn't even know it was there), we claimed FFA. The off-width was definitely the crux for me, it was very dirty and clogged when I got up into it. Bret and I did the route on a rainy Easter Sunday, it was the only thing I could think of that might be dry. It was originally just called "Resurrection" but Stuart Ruckman changed the name in the guide book so it wouldn't get confused with a climb in BCC also called Resurrection.
Apr 5, 2023
Avg: 3.3 from 84
votes
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
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UT
Salt Lake City, UT
Grand Junction
NV
The Ruckman guidebook only gives this 1 of out 3 stars, but the MP consensus 3 out of 4 is definitely more on target. Get on it! May 3, 2014
SLC