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Routes in South Summit Wall

Be Here Now T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Center Thumb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Da Black and Gold T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Expanding Man T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Free Mexican Air Force T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Gardner's Delight , The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gold Wall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great Escape, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Heart of Gold T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Inner Vision T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Left Thumb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
P-38 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Right Thumb T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Taivallista T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, Alpine, 350 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Brian Smoot & Steve Aldous 83'
Page Views: 268 total, 2/month
Shared By: TylerPhillips on Jun 21, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

There is a great drawn topo in the Ruckmans 96' guide on pg.439.

P1. Start in a left-facing thin corner moving over vegetation and passing a pine tree ( I dare you not to use the limbs for feet), gain a beautiful 3" splitter that ends on a nice ledge/belay. 5.9+
(in the guide there says there is a 5.9+mantle on grass, maybe I am reading the guide wrong, but we didn't find any grass mantle on the pitch.)

P2. Climb up left facing corner up to steep shallow cracks/grooves, these bring you up to the arete and to a 3" crack. Belay on the point/stance at the big horn. 5.8 PG-13
( The guide says it's a R pitch but the leader found numerous cam placements, these were of course shallow, but there were quite a few. They probably didn't have sweet 3-cam units in 83'.)

P3. From the point/belay make a long stem (very cool) to gain a sweet finger splitter, follow the finger splitter up over a small roof until the pitch turns into double hands ( even cooler!). Belay in the gullley 5.7

P4. Ramble up non-descript gulley to the top of the buttress and great views. 5.4

We combined the last 2 pitches with a 70M rope.

Location

The route is on the lookers right of the South Summit wall, pg. 437 in the Ruckman guide has a great picture.

Protection

Doubles on everything from #4 camalots to #00 Metolius, long runners very helpful.

Photos

madskates
slc
 
madskates   slc
 
Can be done in two very long pitches if you belay from right at the base of the low angle corner. Amazing route that doesn't get done enough. Aug 9, 2016
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
 
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
 
belay 1 uses finger sized gear. belay 2 uses #3 camalots or slinging the large horn with a 48" runner. belay 3 slings the tree at the top. Highly recommend linking the last 2 pitches as the final is a walk across gravel to a 20 ft dihedral. Jul 10, 2013