[Hide Comment] Eric and I had a vision for this route long before rap-bolting was practiced in North America. The distance between protection points was due to our own uncertainties about rap-bolting. We thought if we were going to place bolts on rappel, and not on hooks as was common then, we had better leave lots of space between them.

One early guidebook entry describes our ascent as a “siege.” I would hardly call what we did as a siege. After bolting the route, Eric tried the first attempt. Remember, this was before people spoke in terms like “on-sight” and “red-point.” We had rappelled only to inspect the line, clean the loose flakes, and determine the best places for the bolts. Neither of us rehearsed any of the moves. Eric placed the pieces in the crack, moved onto the face and had just reached the bolt where the angle of the rock relaxes toward vertical. At that point he faintly uttered “I can’t hang on …” and came hurling off the route to stop, hanging upside down, at eye-level with me. The fact that the belay is off a raised portion of the rock higher than the ground and that the face is slightly overhung, means that a fall, while potentially a bit long, is all air.

Eric considered his effort finished and I went on to lead the climb without pulling the rope from the pieces placed in the crack. I remember reaching the first bolt and being unable to press the gate of the carabineer open in order to clip in. That was my first experience with serious forearm pump. I had to press myself against the rock and shake my arm until I could get the gate open. I don’t miss those Chouinard “D’s”! Apr 22, 2010

[Hide Comment] Yikes. A route that will leave ones tendons aching for a day or week. The start of Lessons in Discipline is committing and somewhat unbelievable but eventually leads to a "rest" before questing to the top where the bolt spacing becomes increasingly spacious.
We "worked" on this route for an hour taking turns figuring out the multiple cruxes. While the upper half of the route eases up, it feels a wee bit like Powder Puff of Fear of Flying for a few moves. A small cam near the top will calm nerves if one is not comfortable with the bolt spacing.
Definitely harder than any of the other 5.11 face routes around the Peak. Jan 7, 2018

[Hide Comment] Best pitch at Pinnacle. Jan 4, 2021

[Hide Comment] In terms of movement, def most modern route at Pinnacle. Long pulls on incut (not to mention sharp) holds. Little footwork skills needed. Fun route! PS. Stoppers optional. If you can do the moves down low on the route, you can skip the stoppers and just go to the next bolt. Jan 30, 2021