PRINT: Rock Climb Acid Rain, City of Rocks

Acid Rain

5.10a R, Trad, Sport, 90 ft (27 m),

Avg: 2.7 from 61 votes
FA: Madigan, Bullock 1990
Idaho > S Idaho > City of Rocks > Building Blocks > Building Blocks - West

Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) No trash cans. (3) Highlining temporary ban in place for CIRO and CRSP Details

(1) The area, crags, and routes just north of the Twin Sisters are on private land and the landowner recently posted no trespassing notices at the gated road/trail to the area. Any access of these areas and routes is trespassing. The area was closed by the landowner due to trespassing, illegal camping, fires & trash, and disregard of owner's privacy.
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.

The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…

Description

Locate the route at the far climbers right of the west face. Start left and climb up and right along a wide crack and series of huecos. Place gear, 0.5 or 0.4 cam, or continue to solo to the first bolt. Move up to a ledge, another opportunity for gear, #1 camalot or if you are tall, clip the 2nd bolt. Climb up and left along the ramp to gain the summit.

This is an hidden classic! The first bolt is 30ft off the deck, but you can fiddle a medium hex at 20ft. Follow fun patina plate climbing to a crux roof. You get cool exposure as you climb patina edges along a leaning arete.

Location

The right most bolted line on the west face

Protection

5 bolts to chain anchors, optional medium hex

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Stick clipping the first bolt from 20 ft up. The first bolt is ~30 ft off the ground.

Henry Faust at the anchors of Acid Rain

Acid Rain. 1st bolt 30 ft up. 5 bolts to chain anchors.

The route...

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Boissal .
Small Lake, UT

5.10a

Hex? Bomber .75 or #1 halfway up to the first bolt in patina cracks.
Unless you like cowbells. Steep for 10a and quite exposed, great line. The edges on top are the biggest yet skinniest patina I've yarded on at the City. Sep 26, 2011

Buddy Tangalos
Salt Lake City

The climbing is pretty straightforward to the high first bolt. If you are comfortable with heights and a confident climber, it should not be a problem. If concerned, there are plenty of places low to plug some gear. Jul 23, 2012

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO

5.10a

If you have gear, it is neither 'R' nor PG. Jun 20, 2016

Chelsea Wood
St. George, UT

I don't recommend stick clipping after scrambling up 15-20 ft, but it can be done, and made me feel better about the high first bolt (30 ft off the deck).

Scramble up to the easy-to-sit-in half-pipe and head left to the first bolt. Staying left of the bolt line is more fun and challenging, especially at the overhanging roof near the end. Good protection (with exception of the 1st bolt).

I thought Lego was more rewarding, but this is worth doing. Jun 18, 2018

Flynn McFarland
Salt Lake City, UT

5.10a PG13

First bolt is easy to get to, especially if you have climbed in JTree haha! It honestly adds to the character of the route and makes it more thrilling. Sep 11, 2019

Cody Lee
Ogden, UT

Rebolted in 2021 by ASCA volunteers. Glue ins + steel lower offs, support sustainable work like this with a tax deductible donation to safeclimbing.org/ Oct 8, 2021

Tom Ponte
Las Vegas, NV

That first bolt although a ways up there is like 5.8b climbing on big solid features. It could be stick clipped easily by someone handing you one from easy stances on the big flake at the start if you want to be as safe as possible. There is a good photo here of someone doing that. The 10.a part is getting over the bulge 2/3 of the way up. The top part is very good crimp climbing but not particularly hard. Mussy hooks at the top if I remember right. May 20, 2022