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Cussing Fingers Variant

5.9+, Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches,  Avg: 1 from 1 vote
FA: unknown
Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Castle Rock
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / Update Details

Description

This variation starts from the lower tier of the big ledge at the base of Cussin' Crack proper. From a fixed angle follow the crack system immediately right of the diheadral on Cussin' Crack (.9+). Join Sticky fingers just before attaining a bush covered ledge and follow that route to a two bolt anchor. This anchor should be backed up or avoided altogether as both bolts are 1/4". Pitch two (.9s) ascends up and left on slopers from the right end of the belay ledge. This is the same point where Western Pleasure and After Forever meet. A fixed lost arrow protects the first moves onto the face and a couple of TCU or Alien placements can be found before reaching a crack/flake that leads to the top.

Protection

Standard rack. Fixed pins at the start of both pitches and double (1/4") bolt anchor at the end of pitch one. Walk off from the top.