The Glass Menagerie
5.13a PG13,
Trad, 900 ft (273 m), 7 pitches, Grade IV,
Avg: 3.9 from 50
votes
FA: Jeep Gaskin, John Borstelman - 1980 FFA: Pascal Robert, Arno Ilgner, Kris Kline - 1995
N Carolina
> 1. Southern Mou…
> Looking Glass Rock
> N Side
Description
This is the finest multipitch free-climb of its grade in the Southeast. If you want sustained climbing with big air and on perfect granite, this is the route for you. The Glass Menagerie is the obvious overhanging line up the center of the North Face of Looking Glass. It is equally good as an aid climb, as it is a free climb. Its cruxes are well protected and the rock is almost always stellar. Please be courteous to other parties if you are trying to work out the free moves. This route gets plenty of traffic and you will likely be sharing the route with other climbers if you try it during peak season.
Pitch 1: (5.11c or 5.8 C1)
Start climbing up the easy face towards the obvious shallow right facing corner. You will eventually be faced with some 5.11 moves on great rock with mostly bolts for pro. You will then encounter a funky steep section that is protected with some pretty rusty bolts and sort of rotten granite. This is short lived and eventually you will traverse out far right on a ledge system (5.8? rotten) that will take you to a bolted belay. Two nice bolts and an angle for the belay. If you are hauling make sure you put your haulbag in the proper location for takeoff on the deck.
Pitch 2: (5.12+ or C1)
This is one fine pitch of climbing. Start cranking hard moves right off the belay eventually scoring a nice kneebar rest under a shallow roof. Get ready for some thin face. Climb out past the roof and up past several bolts onto the beautiful face and end up finishing by traversing onto the exposed face placing a few cams to gain a nice little ledge belay below a flaring corner with a splitter crack in the back. Two bomber bolts will make your belay.
Pitch 3: (5.11a or C1)
After a little rest, rack up with some cams and stoppers for this pitch. You will have a hard time with this one if you don't like rattly fingers. Climb a short crack in a left facing corner with great pro to a decent ledge with at least two bomber bolts for your anchor.
Pitch 4: (5.13 or C2)
This is the money pitch. Get amped right off the bat because you will be loving the climbing here. Make some face moves off the belay. Then break out left through the improbable looking roof. You will encounter jugs, laybacks, and crimps out of this masterpiece. Keep cool for the first thirty feet off the belay. There is big air with bolts for pro and only 5.12 moves till you reach the lip of the roof. It suits the route that the hardest move is at the steepest part of the whole wall. Try and get a breather before you pull the crux. There are good bolts in between the bad ones for the whole roof. Once at the lip, pull a pretty dang hard boulder problem (V6?) and gain a thin lichen covered face. This face is about 5.10+, but it only has two bolts for pro. They are painted black so if you don't see them just keep lookin. Once you've pulled through the face you will find a two bolt belay for your anchor.
Pitch 5: 5.10+ PG 13
This pitch is only part of the free route. The aid line went up and left out of the roof, while the free variation goes up straight past the two bolts described in the previous pitch. Down climb down and left off the belay with only one bolt for pro. You may be able to get some small wires or aliens in as well. You will be angling down and left at about 7 o'clock off the belay. There was a fixed runner off the bolt when we were up there. This pitch will be sort of scary for the leader but terrifying for the second, as he will actually be doing the lead climbing. You will encounter a 2-bolt belay about twenty feet above the lip of the roof proper here.
Pitch 6: (5.10c or C2)
As Mike says below, you can link pitch 5 and 6 and save your second from doing the heinous down climb of pitch five with a semi-top rope. Either way you do it you will climb a splitter hand crack up and eventually gain a fixed nut anchor at a little roof. Traverse out left a few feet to regain the crack (crux 11.c?). Climb the hand crack that will turn into a reasonable off width that overhangs slightly and ends with a slabby right leaning finish to gain yet another two bolt anchor.
Pitch 7: (5.9+ or 5.8, C1)
Climb up off the belay pulling through some thin hands past a bulge and then on to finish the crack up on a slab. You will eventually run out of crack and slab climb up to the top on easy terrain which can be wet if it has rained recently.
I hope this topo information is helpful to all that use this site. Remember, this is how we did it and you may do it differently so you may disagree with my beta.
Location
North Face of Looking Glass. Hike in from the obvious trailhead at the parking area heading south towards the North Face. It will be the first route you come to once at the wall.
It is possible to retreat from any pitch but you may have to leave some biners on the raw bolts. Walk off from the top. Crash the rhodos heading climbers left. You’re aiming for a gully between the North Face and the Hidden Wall. Follow the gully down and wrap around the base back to the bottom of GM.
Protection
We took a pretty full kit so we could work out the free moves. A nice set of cams along with some stoppers and offsets+brass will suffice. Bring along a lot of runners and at least 8 draws. We took some light weight steps to aid the roof and clean the holds before we free climbed it. A portaledge is nice to rest on if you are trying hard to redpoint. Hauling is a breeze due to the steep nature of the wall.
[Hide Photo] 4th Pitch Belay; Photo by Karl VonZabern
[Hide Photo] For those of us not cranking 5.13 this still makes a great aid line.
[Hide Photo] Free climbing topo for the GM, though there should be enough beta for an aid climber to make a solid go of it as well.
[Hide Photo] Local Ashvillian Cole Casserly linking p3 & 4.....tall man beta.
[Hide Photo] Fritz luxuriates at the belay. (We were a bunch of nancy boys and aided the route)
[Hide Photo] Some of the older fixed pro on P-1. The pin is definitely not an original but it still broke with only a tap or two as it was being removed. A single bolt (#2) was used to replace these two pieces…
[Hide Photo] Chad and Lee racking up for a go on the crux 5.13 pitch of the Menagerie. Lee cruised this pitch second go.
[Hide Photo] Scott aiding the 3rd pitch, GM.
QUEENS NEW YORK
Shortly after Barber's free ascent I managed to lead the second free ascent of Cornflake Crack with Jeep & some other friends. That was a quantum leap for us & inspired us to believe we might be making some headway in our own free climbing efforts & abilities.
After our own free ascent of Cornflake, Jeep was really fired up & told me he had been working on freeing the first pitch of Glass Menagerie. It was an abandoned Brad Shaver, rainy day, aid project called "Rubber Ducky" at that time. This uncompleted aid route went up about 100 feet on some of the steepest climbed rock at the Glass. To think of free climbing up there was a wild idea! Jeep had already freed most of the pitch & encouraged me to go give it a try.
I was skeptical that this would go free but decided to give it a go and to my suprise and delight was able to completely free the first pitch up to the big ledge. This was done with Randy Mann probably @ 1976/77 and at that time was probably the hardest free climbing pitch at the Glass. We thought it was an amazing pitch and was atypical of most of the climbing at Looking Glass. It was very steep climbing with some very hard climbing around some kind of questionable pro. Not much like it had been done in the state at the time. We thought of the first pitch as a free climb in itself & named it "Contemporary Insanity" and thought it was probably 5.11.
Later, we tried pushing more free climbing up a second pitch from there & Jeep & I, on different attempts, freed most of the next part up to the original belay in the dihedral. Sounds like this might have now changed some from the above description. Jeep later went on to complete the route to the top as an amazing aid route. We really never imagined back then that this "whole climb" would actually go free some day. I sure wish I had the strength & ability to do this one free to the top. Maybe in my next life. What an awesome route!! Nov 24, 2007
So when I left the belay after the crux pitch, I was on toprope as well. It worked out great. Just for the record, we freed every pitch except the pesky "10d" downclimb which is actually the crux and a good bit harder than the 13a and 12d pitches. Fortunately you can slightly weight the rope and do a psuedo free/aid pendulum that makes you feel like you're freeclimbing so that you can convince yourself: "Well yeah, I mean I freed the 13a pitch so why go back for that shitty 10d downclimb?" May 25, 2009
Flowery Branch, GA
Is there an actual trail that leads to the tourist trail from the top-out or is that basically what you're supposed to do.
Also on pitch 4?? you have to traverse about 30 feet left from the fixed nuts to gain the crack. Or at least that's how we did it.
Try to back clean along the traverse so your partner can lower out from the nuts otherwise terrible rope drag for the crack above. Jul 1, 2012
Bay Area, CA
I think I belayed at the end of that traverse off medium cams in the vertical crack. to avoid the rope drag and such so that there was no need to back clean. Jul 1, 2012
Pittsboro...sort of, NC
Boulder, CO
A quick word on aiding: A hold recently broke on the 12+ open book pitch (the clipping hold for the first bolt). Its unclear whether this was from aiding or not, but from the nature of things seems likely it could have been a hooking-induced break. Please don't hook on free routes, especially those of such exceptional quality with thin, fragile holds such as the Menagerie. Nov 11, 2012
Big South Fork, TN
Planning on climbing it again in September. Jul 17, 2013
Bishop, ca
Denver, CO
How about free climbers adding bolts? (Rhetorical question) Feb 28, 2014
Boulder, CO
Livermore, CA
Now, I am not saying that isn't true, but there is an important caveat: bringing a route down to your level to free it isn't more rad than the original aid ascent. It's a step backwards. The Menagerie would be a much prouder free line if it was sent free in its original form, without changing the fundamental character of the route first.
All that being said, if you're aiding this route and a hook move is necessary for upward progress then by all means, hook away. If you can avoid hooking then you should certainly go out of your way to do so as a kindness to all future free climbers on this route. Apr 9, 2014
Bishop, ca
Denver, CO
Not exactly what I'm talking about. Not the holes. The many many existing hangers attached to many many bolts. Game changers.
"free climbing > aid climbing."
So 'Rado. May 15, 2014
Livermore, CA
Raleigh, NC
Yes, hooks ARE sexy (if you think spicy is sexy). From Supertopo.com:
"Hooking is the spiciest part of aid climbing. Small hook moves are scary. Bomber hook placements are still scary because after you move off it you dont have it as protection."
That kind of talk sells me on the sexiness. We all want to be badasses. Really, though, on the GM, hooking is unnecessary. While there are definitely some solid camhook placements in the book -- no danger of breaking the rock with those -- I remember no necessary down-pulling hooks (and I suck at aiding).
Sadly, though, here's the part about hooks that that often gets overlooked. Again, wise words from a man that has probably hooked a lot more than anyone debating here:
"Like cam hooking, the key with hooking is to make 50 to 100 practice placements a few feet off the ground. Dont hook on established boulder problems because you can break off holds."
Seems like the best choice is not to hook.
And for those of us that feel that free climbers should raise their game and not neuter a bold line with bolts, only need a bit of introspection is required to see that those of us aiding the route can raise our own game and leave the Talons, Cliffhangers, and Grappling Hooks on the ground. May 21, 2014
Boulder, CO
I've seen a couple of tactics for avoiding this: (a) using a trekking pole to stick the first bolt, (b) doing the P2 variation directly above the P1 anchors.
We chose the P2 variation, which would be the way to go for anyone looking to aid this route; however, if you really need to go the original version, stick that bolt. It's better style than being that guy that breaks the hold. May 21, 2014
Raleigh, NC
Bishop, ca
Now it is practically a stainless steel ladder. Not only is this a waste of bolts (shoulda replaced the open book bolts) but it took some of the spice out of the pitch for aids climbers. God forbid that there be a body weight only placement in between the existing bolts. May 23, 2014
Asheville, NC
St Pete, FL
Thanks!
(Also, summer ascent: good/fair/stupid idea?) Jul 15, 2014
Boulder, CO
Rappel the route with a 70m rope.
From the top of the exit pitch, one 35m rappel puts you at the top of the "meat grinder" off-width pitch. Watch your rope ends!
From here, one 30m rappel puts you at the top of the free roof pitch. (A 35m rappel could probably get you to the top of the aid roof pitch, but I've never tried it.)
From here, one 70m rappel gets you to the ground, rappelling all the way past the crux pitches. This rappel is long, exposed, and kinda fun.
With this beta, you can climb the route with one 70m rope. For the final rappel, fix the rope and send the first person down. This person can then grab the second 70m rope you intelligently stashed somewhere around the base. The other individual still atop the roof pitch can then haul up the second rope and rappel on joined ropes.
Some other notes about the descent (and hardware):
The fixed anchors after the roof pitch are older, but pretty good. They'll need replaced after awhile, though. The hardware on the anchors also needs some help. The anchors are standard hangers with single quicklinks on them. This means that rappelling as described above twists the hell out of your rope. The addition of another quicklink or a rap ring on each bolt would solve this problem. Also, the bolts atop the free roof pitch are offset and currently feature a fixed sling, but are otherwise good to go.
I have the hardware for all of this and plan to replace it as soon as I get another chance to get up the GM when it's not raining. I'll be replacing the sling with some chain and adding quicklinks/rap rings to the upper anchors. If you get there before me, I'd recommend bringing 4 quicklinks to save yourself and your rope a twisty headache.
Other hardware:
As for the bolt situation, I'd have to ask the folks who did the re-bolt, but maybe the bolts were placed as they are on the roof precisely to prevent the breaking of holds with hook moves as a kind of aid/free compromise? The position is still amazing either way (though I agree not as bold).
As for the Open Book, ideally I think it would be great to remove the current 6 bolts, clean out/enlarge the holes as appropriate, and install glue-ins. This would prevent putting any more holes in the rock (a shame on that pitch) and allow the bolts to be replaced indefinitely using the existing holes.
Regarding the bolt positioning, having been free climbing on it I think the bolts are actually pretty intelligently positioned. Maybe bolts 3 and 4 could be adjusted a bit (I find bolt 4 requires an awkward cross-clip for me). However, as I understand it, the original aid line actually followed the open book corner for the most part (not the bolt line on the slab), meaning that the bolts on the Open Book as they currently exist were installed with free climbing in mind. I say leave them in their current positions.
Finally, there is a "perma-draw" of sorts on bolt 3 of the Open Book. It features a thin quicklink that's rusted shut, a very faded yellow sling, and surprisingly, a nice wire gate 'biner. I'd like to see this either removed entirely or replaced with an actual perma-draw (steel cable or something).
Would love to hear others' thoughts on this. Sep 14, 2014
Boulder, CO
Morgantown, WV
The route boasts Yosemite quality granite and entails all types of climbing; vertical, roofs, slab, crack. We climbed the route on 12/5-6th. We bivyed above the pitch 4 roof. The upper pitches were pretty wet from ice melting during the day. We pressed on and finished the route regardless.
We rapped off via the nose route, 3 double rope rappels.
Below is a pic/video montage of our climb:
youtube.com/watch?v=JKnpuCa… Dec 9, 2015
Hollywood, MD
-We took the C2 aid variation for pitch 2. Highly recommended to avoid mandatory 5.12 free/hook move directly off the belay at the start of the Open Book pitch.
-Pitch 3 is listed in some sources as C1. I disagree--the aid here was tricky. Spoiler alert: cam hooks are a must.
-Pitch 6 is really long with savage rope drag. Extend your placements, especially where the route traverses left for ~20 ft. My rope drag was so heinous that I had to split the pitch into two with a gear belay, wasting tons of time. Don't make this mistake if aiding the pitch.
-Though it shouldn't spook anyone too bad, there is a mandatory 5.7 R section at the top of pitch 7, as well as between pitch 7 and the trees up top. 5.7 friction with no pro for 40 feet can be pretty spicy when the route is soaking wet and covered with lichen-y slime, as it was when we topped out. Be careful!
-There is simply no straightforward description of how to get to the Nose rappel from the top, and because of this we had to shiver through the night in an emergency bivy up top. To save you this turmoil, here's the exact directions: When you get to the top, steep third-class trails will lead you up the hill for a while. After the trail fades, bushwhack up the hill indefinitely until you get to a very clearly marked tourist trail. Get on the trail and walk UP the hill to the highest point on Looking Glass. You will see a primitive campsite and a clearing. From here, take the clear trail down the hill for a few minutes until it spills out onto the Sun Wall/Nose area. From here, traverse right along the granite until a line of trees blocks your path. Carefully walk downhill to circumvent the tree line. A large rock/flake should be visible, with the two rap anchors directly in front of you. These are the Nose anchors.
Hopefully this helps some people out. Mar 13, 2016
Brevard, NC
Rack:
Triple rack would be ideal with 2x 4" and 1x 5"
Set of nuts micro-large offsets are useful
Cam hooks and hooks are MANDATORY if you aren't willing to step out of your aiders
P-1 Aid leads to a short section of free climbing to the anchors
P-2 Easy but poor protection
P-3 Tricky first move leads to lots of bolts and some thin moves (cam hooks and micro nuts) to a leftward traverse. Bring a 3" cam for this pitch
P-4 Awkward climbing in the corner leads to a mantel or hook move to gain a small ledge below the roof.
P-5 Climb up the roof on bolts and small cams to some fixed gear at the lip. Past the roof, follow a line of bolts to an overlap where you climb fixed gear to an eventual pendulum to the anchors.
P-6 This is where the rack of triples is nice! Prepare to do some free climbing on this pitch. Climb up to some fixed nuts with lower out slings. Traverse hard left and eventually pendulum left into the crack. Climb up past the wide crack to a rightward traverse to the anchors
P-7 Climb straight up to the SPLITTER hand crack and negotiate the final slab. If rapping the Nose (recomended), climb past the anchors to a hemlock and haul from here. Nov 1, 2016
Celo, NC
Seattle, WA
A word of advice regarding timing: This route gets full sun until around 11am in the summer months. If you decide to fix a few pitches and "get an early start" by jugging up them the next morning, you will suffer. Jun 13, 2018
Flowery Branch, GA
Knox
Buford, GA