Type: Sport, 65 ft (20 m)
FA: Darren Knezek
Page Views: 1,710 total · 8/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Jun 18, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Pitches two and three of a three-pitch bolted route combined. After the third bolt there are two choices: go right for a 5.8 variation or stay straight (the left bolt) for this route.

Fairly easy climbing through the first part, a short vertical section, then easy climbing to a ledge topped by a headwall. Climb straight up through the remaining three bolts on the headwall for a middle-ish 10 section, or decide discretion is the better part of valor and stay right on jugs at the arete for a 7- or 8-ish pusillanimous (discreet - I mean discreet) experience (you can still clip the bolts). Lower or rap to the belay, or walk off the top.

This has afternoon shade and was quite comfortable on a 90 degree late afternoon.

Location Suggest change

Get to George’s lowest, northeast belay (two hanger-and-ring anchors) via George Direct, the first pitch of Lounge Lizards, or by scrambling up some dicey terrain to the east. Follow the bolts up the “broken staircase”.

Protection Suggest change

8 bolts to hanger-and-ring anchors (or 5 bolts and 3 bolts if split into two pitches). Hanger-and-ring anchors at the belay, and also at a belay/rap anchor on the ledge before the headwall.

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