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Routes in Land of the Rising Moon

Analog V8-9 7B+
Blade Runner T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Colorado Cable Cutter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cross of Iron T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Digital V6 7A
Drain Pipe T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Drainpipe Left Exit T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Master of Sport T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Moonrise Variation T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Straight and Narrow T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Steve Matous, Scott Heywood? Jim Howe & Eric Breitenburger, 1985/86?
Page Views: 2,039 total, 16/month
Shared By: Jeff G. on Jun 18, 2007
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This route is a Vedauwoo Classic! It has all sizes of crack climbing to a technical and hair-raising, face climbing finish.

This starts fists then widens to offwidth just before a nice hands to thin hands splitter shoots straight up the imposing "headwall". Start on the route Moontide with the fist and offwidth crack. When the wide crack turns horizontal, start up the vertical hand to thin hand crack that shoots straight up the wall, this is The Moonrise Variation. Moontide continues along the wide crack as it turns horizontal and finishes on an obvious offwidth, thereby avoiding the beautiful splitter and face finish of Moonrise. Moontide is easier but not as aesthetic (5.10a).

Location

Just down and left from Straight and Narrow is a very obvious, wide crack that arcs to the right with the thin hands splitter of Moonrise branching off and going directly up to the anchors.

Protection

1 of each; yellow TCU, Orange TCU or #0.5 Camalot, #0.75 Camalot, #1 Camalot and #2 Camalot. 2 or 3 #3 Camalots, 1 new #4 Camalot, 1 new #5 Camalot. The yellow and orange TCUs offer bomber pro just before the face finish. Brand new, stainless anchors with chains on top.

Photos

David Bruneau
St. John
David Bruneau   St. John
IMO, the first few feet of the offwidth finish on Moontide were harder than the crux of Mainstreet and probably had the sharpest crystals out of all the routes I did in Vedauwoo over a 3 week stay. Definitely agree about the #6 Camalot, but sling it long or back clean it after bumping it because the anchors are 15 feet to the left of the offwidth. Sep 4, 2013
Jim Howe
Salt Lake city
Jim Howe   Salt Lake city
Eric Breitenburger and I climbed and named this variation in the summer of 1985 or '86. It needed a lichen cleaning and friable flakes peeled off. This variation probably had not been climbed before because of the condition, but one never knows. Mar 6, 2013
erik rieger
Ridgway, CO
 
erik rieger   Ridgway, CO
 
Awesome route. Sick position. Aug 26, 2012
poundit14
Laramie, WY
poundit14   Laramie, WY
WARNING: the rock in the pod about halfway up moves as well. It actually moves with ease, whether from a loaded cam or just a foot jam will cause it to shift from one side to the other, causing cams to tip out and fingers to get stuck. Aug 31, 2009
Johan Grahnen
Palo Alto, CA
Johan Grahnen   Palo Alto, CA
Be somewhat careful when exiting the finger crack at the end -- the flake that forms it moves, particularly if you load e.g. a cam placed in it. May 27, 2009
Jason Funk
Salt Lake City, UT
Jason Funk   Salt Lake City, UT
I agree Moontide is not as aesthetic as Moonrise and technically easier; however, don't be fooled the final offwidth after the traverse on Moontide caught me by surprise, and I wished that I had chosen the direct variation. My only suggestion if you decide on moontide is to bring a #6 Camalot or wider, you won't regret having it for the last 20 feet. Sep 9, 2008