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White Gold

5.9+, Trad, 80 ft,  Avg: 3 from 34 votes
FA: Rich Gottlieb, Jan Schwarzberg - 1980
Alabama > Sand Rock > Sun Wall

Description

One of Sand Rock's classic trad lines, White Gold is a burly lead with nice exposure. If you're not a solid 5.10 leader and/or good at hand-jamming, you're probably not ready for this one.

Starting in a sort of shallow chimney, follow the pebbly rock up to a left-facing corner. Jam the crack up to a roof, then move right onto the face and on to the top.

Location

Starts in a sandy clearing, just right of the cave that leads to the Whipping Post, and around the corner left of Knob Wall. Rap from the anchors.

Protection

Standard trad rack -- small to medium gear. Bolted anchors at the top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Leading White Gold.  Belayer: Nolan Fulton.  Photo: Jordan Hall
[Hide Photo] Leading White Gold. Belayer: Nolan Fulton. Photo: Jordan Hall
The lower crack and upper face section on White Gold, Sand Rock, AL.
[Hide Photo] The lower crack and upper face section on White Gold, Sand Rock, AL.
Will styling his way up White Gold, Sand Rock, AL.
[Hide Photo] Will styling his way up White Gold, Sand Rock, AL.
Safely past the crux, Frank gets in some protection for the last section of White Gold.
[Hide Photo] Safely past the crux, Frank gets in some protection for the last section of White Gold.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Kinda helps to tape for the pebbles. Nice climb here! Jun 19, 2007
yevquest
Southeast,US
[Hide Comment] If not for some pebbly rock this would be a 4-star outing. I agree with the description, solid for 5.9. Well worth doing. Apr 8, 2008
[Hide Comment] This route has a really strange traverse at the top to get to the anchors. I went straight up and found myself on top without any anchors. If you follow the mossy pathway out left you can get to a set of relatively new anchors. However, you should really protect the traverse for your second. Feb 7, 2016
Joshua Harrington
Arvada, CO
[Hide Comment] Does anyone have a good photo(s) of this route to add? Sep 18, 2016
[Hide Comment] If you want to reach a set of anchors, you'll have to go further right on the upper face than you probably expect. Good advice in the description regarding leading 5.9+, but the climb and view from above are great. Apr 23, 2018