Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,581 total · 11/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Jun 17, 2007
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


18 Opinions

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Description

I haven't been able to find out any history on this route; Chris Watford (Dixie Cragger's Atlas) says people have been climbing it for years, but he's never heard of a name for it or who did the FA. I got tired of calling it un-named, so I just gave it one. It didn't rate inclusion in the guide book, but it's a fun line nevertheless, and the good opportunities for protection make it a nice choice for the novice trad leader.

Starting about 20' right of the Standard Route boulder, you'll see an obvious zig-zagging vertical crack system. Follow this up the face and on to the top.

Location

Starts between the Standard Route's alternate start and Lands of Time. Rap from bolted anchors.

Protection

Plentiful; medium cams and passive pro. New bolted anchors at the top.

Photos

Gus Fontenot
Alabama
 
Gus Fontenot   Alabama
 
always called it the Standard Direct. Best top out is not to skirt left at top to anchors but go over the highest point...although it juts out abit, there are big holds. Oct 23, 2007
Brad "Stonyman" Killough   Alabama  
At the top, you can build a belay anchor at a small boulder. Simply rap off rap anchors @ standard route. Oct 27, 2008
Brutus Youn
  5.8-
Brutus Youn  
  5.8-
There are chain anchors for this route now very strategically placed. We climbed standard route and then set up a toprope for this route which made for an excellent beginner toprope route. Will lead it next time now that I know I won't have to build anchors. Sep 24, 2017
less traverse than standard route so this is probably a safer way to the top of pinnacle. May 15, 2018
Briar May
Leesburg, AL
Briar May   Leesburg, AL
The photos here differ from the cragger's atlas photo of the route. Anyone know which is the right one? Aug 7, 2018
saxfiend
Decatur, GA
  5.8
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
  5.8
Briar May, the photos on this page are definitely of Crack a Smile. Since there is no photo of the route in the Cragger, I'm not sure what you're referring to. Aug 7, 2018