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America's Best Chew

5.11a, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 2.8 from 30 votes
FA: Greg Miles et al?
Wyoming > Jackson Hole > Rodeo Wall

Description

Cruxy near the roof pull. In a sea of those great Rodeo patina edges, sometimes it's hard to see the often fundamental hidden pockets. Fun edge pulling above roof.

Location

Starts just left of its tobacco bro Copenhagen.

Protection

8 bolts to two rap rings.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Daniel Nelson
Jackson, WY
 
[Hide Comment] easy slabby start to one very tricky crux move at overhang with somewhat hidden, essential side pull. Upper section spaced bolts, but easier climbing on patinas to anchors. Jul 21, 2014
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
[Hide Comment] Shares the start with Copenhagen. Tetonclimbing.com topo shows the route left of here as "Middle Route" 11c. Aug 16, 2017
Greg Miles
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] "America’s best chew” This fine older sport route received a complete face lift on 9.14.17. New anchors, new bolts. A few additional bolts were added to the crux runout sections. It no longer shares the same start as "Copenhagen". "Copenhagen" now has its very own start just a bit to the right. Go do it! Cheers, Greg Sep 18, 2017
Grape Alien
Boulder, CO
  5.10c/d
[Hide Comment] A little easier to reach through to good holds over the roof it you're tall. Super fun climbing on edges above. Mar 27, 2020
Leeroy Jenkins
Jackson, WY
 
[Hide Comment] Proposed name change to "America's Best Chew" as a) Mtn Project Web chose to redact the original name and b) the tobacco company for which this route was named adopted the same name in 2022. Will need Greg Mile's blessing, but figured it would be better than "[Redacted]". Aug 1, 2023
Greg Miles
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] Im good with the name change to “America’s best chew” Jul 17, 2026
[Hide Comment] Fell just after the roof while trying to clip the second of the two closer spaced bolts that protect it. Fell before I clipped it, and the extra slack given to clip had me fall all the way down to the slab below (could have had too much slack in the system even for a clip but I am not sure). Ankle landed first, could be a bad sprain or brake. Rope caught me just after ankle smashed that sucka. Anyway, point is, try not to fall there while clipping, or tell your belyaer to keep it tight, and really monitor the slack they give for the clip at that point. Falling onto features below = no fun.

Rodeo Wall: 1
Shane: 0 Sep 8, 2026