Type: Trad, Aid, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Cam Burns and Friends
Page Views: 964 total · 7/month
Shared By: toddgordon Gordon on Jun 14, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This route climbs the south face of the biggest spire in this group of small spires. Start with some cracks on the SE section of the formation, and there is a steep section near the top.

Location

6.4 miles up Kanes Springs road (from the BLM kiosk), and on the east side of the road, across from Shelbyville, and just before the dirt road starts up wind up to Harrah Pass.

Protection

a double set of cams.

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Photos

Cam Burns Spire. Photo; Todd Gordon Collection
Cam Burns Spire. Photo; Todd Gordon Collection
 6
Tower 10/10 of the day. Wind and rain threatening in the distance.
Tower 10/10 of the day. Wind and rain threaten…
 1
workin it
workin it
 1
Cam Burns Spire; Photo; Todd Gordon Collection
Cam Burns Spire; Photo; Todd Gordon Collection
 0

7 Comments

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toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
5.9 A2
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
5.9 A2
I climbed this spire with George Armstrong in April of 2003. Anyone know the name of this spire, or have any other info about it? Jun 15, 2007
Ben Folsom
Ben Folsom  
I climbed this hoodoo in Jan 2004 with Paul Irby and Erica Kutcher. We did it free at 5.9 Nov 27, 2007
Ben Folsom
Ben Folsom  
Oops, my mistake. I just looked at an old photo of the climb we did, and this hoodoo is behind us in our summit photo. We did not climb this hoodoo but one in between it and the main cliffs. Dec 1, 2007
Camster (Rhymes with Hamster)

Camster (Rhymes with Hamster)    
well, i guess some one will need to add a ben folsom and, of course, a todd gordon, tower or two, right?..... May 26, 2008
toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
5.9 A2
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
5.9 A2
Sure;....why not......(I need to start up some Putterman climbs at Joshua Tree..........I really do.........it will be fun.....) May 30, 2008
paul bucher
moab, utah
5.9 A1 PG13
paul bucher   moab, utah
5.9 A1 PG13
july of 12. awesome fun little spire. must do. starts out with a wide move. then super thin. then wide and steep. then a bolt ladder. i drug up single friends to a 5, aliens, small nuts and pins. wish i had double on the wide. smallest alien did not fit and the rest were not needed. small stoppers were not great, and only placed one pin. the move at the pin was not hard (5.8 or 9) but the pro was micro. pins not absolutely needed but better to be safe. some wide moves brings you to a good ledge below the bolt ladder. first bolt is a stretch. after the last pin theres sling to clip. it was old. we added a a new one. i backed up this move with a finger size cam. good anchors on top. rap the east side with one 70.
the other little tower behind this one goes free at 5.9 move. two bolts and minimum on the pro. i did not lead this one but i thought i would have placed a 4 to protect the move. taylor bond said he used a high stopper. single rope down on this one too.
two great little towers, close to the road, in an awesome area make these both must do!!! fun, sic, and dirty old guard desert climbing. Jul 23, 2012
jakobi
moab, utah
  5.8 C1
jakobi   moab, utah
  5.8 C1
No pins needed, easily goes clean with one micro cam placement. Sep 3, 2015