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Conn's West

5.4, Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 2.9 from 185 votes
FA: FA N.C. Hartz, Henry Schulter, Earl Richardson, 1944; FFA Herb and Jan Conn, late 1940s
W Virginia > Seneca Rocks > S Peak - W Face > S Peak W Face (Main A…

Description

P1. Climb the obvious left-facing flake/dihedral from the top of the first pitch of Old Man's Route. P1 ends at a ledge with a sizable tree and rappel anchors. This first pitch involves a few chimney moves and it's possible to sling some chockstones for pro.

P2. Climb the right-facing corner up and over a few ledge systems to the rappel ledge for the west face. Belay here to reduce rope drag or continue up through the notch to the summit ledges.

Location

Start by climbing the first pitch of Old Man's Route.

Protection

Standard Seneca rack.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

George following p3 of Conn's West.
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An old school 5.4 for sure.
[Hide Photo] George following p3 of Conn's West. An old school 5.4 for sure.
Anchor location below the "slip" into Conn's West
[Hide Photo] Anchor location below the "slip" into Conn's West
Maggie and Dad just near the end of P2
[Hide Photo] Maggie and Dad just near the end of P2
Some routes beginning at the base of Old Man's Route.
[Hide Photo] Some routes beginning at the base of Old Man's Route.
Climb the chimney flake to belay from the tree atop pitch 1
[Hide Photo] Climb the chimney flake to belay from the tree atop pitch 1
Start of conns west 1st pitch climbing toward the chimney flake
[Hide Photo] Start of conns west 1st pitch climbing toward the chimney flake
Starting up Old Mans to get to the ledge to start conns
[Hide Photo] Starting up Old Mans to get to the ledge to start conns
Caroline coming up the first pitch (P2 including old mans) of Conn's West!
[Hide Photo] Caroline coming up the first pitch (P2 including old mans) of Conn's West!
Pitch 2
[Hide Photo] Pitch 2
View looking down the third pitch direct finish. From here it's a short scramble through a notch and onto the summit ledge.
[Hide Photo] View looking down the third pitch direct finish. From here it's a short scramble through a notch and onto the summit ledge.
Pitch 2 belay ledge. You can also use the tree for an anchor. There are rap anchors just left of where I am standing, but try to avoid using these as this rap area is heavily used.
[Hide Photo] Pitch 2 belay ledge. You can also use the tree for an anchor. There are rap anchors just left of where I am standing, but try to avoid using these as this rap area is heavily used.
Tara climbing through the chimney on the second pitch (first pitch being first pitch of old mans)
[Hide Photo] Tara climbing through the chimney on the second pitch (first pitch being first pitch of old mans)

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Bill Hutchins
Bethesda, MD
  5.4
[Hide Comment] The direct finish goes up a nice inside corner to the left off the second belay ledge. Very nice 5.5 climbing with several fun stemming moves. Oct 7, 2007
dinglestyle
Catonsville, MD
  5.5
[Hide Comment] Super loose flake on the right facing wall of the dihedral just below the ledge with the tree on it. Feb 20, 2009
[Hide Comment] I second the comment on the direct variation. It is a much more enjoyable pitch than the original finish. Jul 6, 2010
Shawn Heath
Forchheim, DE
  5.4
[Hide Comment] My first time at Seneca: after doing Simple J Malarky and not having much fun on it, getting lost on the way to do Green Wall, and saying "screw it, let's just get to the top before sun-down", I happened to be standing under this one which a very enjoyable cruise to the top. Usually I hate this low-level climbing because the falls almost always have ledge-fall potential. This is no different, except for the fact that falling is difficult to do! Even when I was 30 feet above my piece, I felt fine. I highly recommend this route! You could easily protect the whole thing with just nuts and hexes. Sep 14, 2010
[Hide Comment] The direct finish is great! May 12, 2011
D.Starry Yake
Pittsburgh, Pa
 
[Hide Comment] Do the direct finish to make it a 5.5. super fun! Jun 28, 2011
Don MacKenzie
Seattle, WA
[Hide Comment] I think this used to be 5.3 and the direct finish went at 5.4... those grades seemed more consistent by Seneca standards.

I highly recommend the direct finish.

P1 and P2 can easily be linked with 60m ropes. Try this with a 50 and your belayer will be simul-climbing the initial (very easy) moves.

There's also a direct variation down low that is worth doing. You climb a short, steep corner ("Stupid's Corner") immediately below the start of the chimney. It's probably 5.4 and you really only need to protect the exit move.

I recently did the 5.7 variation listed in the Barnes guide, which is about 10 feet to the right of the chimney pitch. it climbs the corner/chimney with 2 trees growing out of it near the base. Getting past the trees is a bit awkward but there's some good climbing above that makes it worthwhile. Apr 5, 2012
Mark Maier
  5.4
[Hide Comment] We did the 5.7 variation (the corner with the two trees). It is where the comment says, just to the right of the chimney pitch. I can't say I recommend it. It is rather awkward, with considerable loose rock in the cracks. My second took a swing when a handhold broke off. Jun 16, 2013
Kathryn Ann Marsh
Cleveland, OH
 
[Hide Comment] Did the 5.7 variation (the one with the two trees), and really enjoyed it. Fun movement. Technical and spicy at times for a 5.7. Jun 15, 2014
adamsc
Arvada, CO
  5.4
[Hide Comment] Linked the route in one 70m pitch from the bottom of Old Man's on 7/16. You have to move the belay up to the base of the initial 5.0 moves to make it, and take the corner start and direct finish, but it's a stellar pitch of climbing. Jul 17, 2017
[Hide Comment] From the second edition of Seneca by Tony Barnes there's an alternative 5.5 start to pitch one. There's a short, steep corner directly below the big flake (left of the old man chimney). Dec 29, 2018
John Ely
Washington D.C.
 
[Hide Comment] This was my first day of lead climbing circa 1976. A guy with a VW bug which we started by pushing backwards led me up green wall. Then he said, it is a real pain in the neck to rappell, and Old Man's is always crowded so lets just down climb this one..... Jan 7, 2022