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Routes in Kanaranzi Buttress (East Face)

Crack, The T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crazy Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Guillotine, The TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kanaranzi Right TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Purgatory T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stairway To Hell TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Stairway to Heaven TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,807 total, 14/month
Shared By: Doug Lintz on Jun 13, 2007
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

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A classic harder route at Blue Mounds. Begins in a square black niche about 15 feet right of Crazy Crack. Climb straight up a broken crack system over several small roofs. The Falcon Guide (Mike Farris) suggests possibly moving left. Straight up past an obvious 2 foot long roof crack feels more appropriate.


Middle of the East Face of Kanaranzi Buttress. Access to the top requires some exposed scrambing over large wedged blocks on the left (South) side of the buttress.


A fairly tricky toprope setup by Blue Mounds standards, bring long slings. Be careful when setting up the anchor as the top has several sloping steps near the edge. There's a few nut placements to climber's left about 6 feet from the edge and midsize cam placements to climber's right near the back edge of the buttress.

If leading take small nuts to medium cams or hexes. Little to no gear for the last 10 feet which includes the crux.
Pete Hunt  
Here is the rack you'll need for leading Purgatory. Notice the crucial micro nut. Replace the #1 Camalot with a 0.75 (for a total of two 0.75s). Big fall potential at top but would be pretty clean. Photo courtesy Jesse Littleton.

Nov 10, 2013