Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Ron Dawson
Page Views: 1,904 total · 13/month
Shared By: David Arthur Sampson on Jun 12, 2007
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


65 Opinions

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Description

This is an ok climb. It is fun for the first four bolts; steep and pumpy. IMHO the shuts should have been placed much lower, right after the last move exiting the bulge.

As it is, you climb cool overhanging rock on buckets, but then turn the corner/roof only to have to climb 5.5 for ~ 30 feet to the shuts.

Location

One of three climbs on the Bedrock bulge. Shares the same start/ hanger as Barney Rubble. Starts on a ledge in the alcove that is "Bedrock."

Protection

Bolts. Shuts on top.

Photos

Shawn Heath
Forchheim, Germany
  5.9
Shawn Heath   Forchheim, Germany  
  5.9
I once had the owl that used to live here burst out over my head. I then saw her chicks in the nest that was there. I'm not sure if the owl still comes here (she was pretty pissed that we were climbing there), but if she does, try to respect her choice of a home when she's there. This climb has a super cool clipping stance where you can come out the roof, heel hook high and easily clip with your body in a horizontal position. ...makes you feel like Stallone (completely ridiculous, but mysteriously awesome)! Dec 2, 2010
Christian
Casa do Cacete
  5.10-
Christian   Casa do Cacete
  5.10-
Yeah the gully at the end w loose death blocks is kind of ridiculous. Jun 18, 2011